Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Deidre Burton - 3/96
Page Views: 931 total · 6/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Mar 20, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Just right of Sports Book. Opening moves are tough as you use side pulls and reach high to an undercling. The crux is likely the first few bolts but the fun doesn't end 'til you clip the anchors!

Location

Directly right of "Sports Book". The start and finish of these two routes are kinda close quarters. If someone is on Sports Book, it would be best to wait it out until finished.

Protection

7 bolts - shut anchors

Photos

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Crux is fun but it's a 3-move wonder. Most of the route is 5.7 jug and ledge paddling. Mar 21, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a/b
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11a/b
Hillary, true that the business is within the first 3 bolts, but it only take one move to make the grade. It may ease on the 1/2 half of the route but if you don't climb .11 you'd likely get shut down on the opening sequences.

Personally, I like this route. I also like that for people trying to break into the grade it's an easy TR set up using Sports Book to the left (the anchors are about 18" apart).

Public Service Announcement: PLEASE USE DRAWS FOR TR's!!!!!! Jun 9, 2008
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Somewhat of a committing start on greasy feeling footholds. It really lets off higher up. Not classic, but the start is worth a run. Apr 19, 2009