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Routes in Black Wall (aka Happy Acres)

All that, Jazz T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cram It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geriatric Therapy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greek Tragedy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Happy Acres T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mom & Apple Pie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mothers of Invention S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spontaneous Enjoyment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tres Hombres T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Mark Limage, Gary Sanders
Page Views: 782 total · 6/month
Shared By: Francis Baker (fran) on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

climb the bolted face for pitch one.(60') Move directly left 15' from the anchor and head up the face along a small left facing corner past some small overhangs and follow cracks and face holds to the top. A very long pitch that may require moving the belayer left to give the climber enough rope to reach the top.

Location

15' east of ATJ

Protection

P1 4draws and bolted anchor.
P2 Lots of .25 to 1" and a few up to 3" there are also two bolts. Belay anchor on top of ATJ.

Photos

- No Photos -
Francis Baker (fran)
Las Vegas,NV
 
Francis Baker (fran)   Las Vegas,NV
 
I climbed this in April of '04 thinking it was "Spontaneous Enjoyment"
I have no idea who put in the bolts and/or who climbed it first. If anyone knows pass it on and I will update the information. We did the exact same decent as described in ATJ. I wish Todd's bolts were on top when we did it! I think you can use them now to belay from. I would also recommend a 70m rope. Mar 19, 2007
Did the original second pitch of Geriatric Therapy with Nurse Ratchet last week.

Some fragile rock, its a good exercise in routefinding and finding good protection. 5.7. A 30m rap can return you to the P1 belay, whence you can do the variation (which we did.)

Note that there are bolts but no rap anchors at the top of the third pitch (on the variation) so walking off is the best option. A rappel would have serious rope-snag potential anyway. Good views down onto the First and Second Pullouts from the walk off. Nov 27, 2008
I did this route with Randy Grandstaff in 1987 and there were no bolts on route or for belays. We did the route in 2 and a half pitches using gear for anchors. We walked off. This has always been the "Black Wall" and there may be other ascents not noted by Sal, Paul and Nick. Jan 13, 2009
Late March 2014, also climbed this believing it to be Spontaneous Enjoyment. I think Hadren's guide lists it this way. Great route on an intimidating face. I would call this a heady lead while not being technically difficult. Recommended! Apr 7, 2014
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.8
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.8
There is some confusion as to this climb and All That Jazz. Apparently some people consider the variation of going left up the left facing corner to the bolted belay and then on to a third pitch a different climb(All That Jazz). Some people (Handren guidebook) consider it a variation of Geriatric Therapy. If you look at the photos for the two climbs they show the same (variation) second pitch. Apr 12, 2016
If referencing the Handren Guidebook [2016], this route is labelled as Spontaneous Enjoyment. Sep 10, 2016

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