Avg: 3 from 24 votes
|Type:||Trad, Snow, Alpine, 3000 ft, Grade II|
|FA:||P Petzoldt, G Exum, T Koven, G Koven, 1931|
|Page Views:||7,243 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Mar 19, 2007|
DescriptionI always thought this was the easiest route on Mt. Owen, but was surprised just now to find that it is not. It is, however, the easiest route when approaching from the east. The only major technical difficulty is the summit block. You can begin this route either from Amphitheatre Lake or from the summit of Teewinot. I recommend the former and I have not done the latter.
For the standard approach from Amphithreatre Lake, descend a ramp west to the Teton Glacier Moraine (tricky if snow-covered). You now must cross the end of this glacier, which is melted out and/or covered with unstable scree. Ascend the obvious couloir to gain the saddle west of Teewinot. This is snow-filled in early season, otherwise it is filled with loose rock. Half-way up the couloir there is a waterfall, move left to avoid this steep section. Helmets recommended for this section, watch for climbers above you.
From the saddle head west up the east ridge, easy scrambling for the most part. Your next objective is to climb a cliff to gain access to Owen's upper snowfield, just below the summit block. The easiest option is to traverse right and climb a chimney. Now you need to make a long rising traverse left and up the upper snowfield to a point just south of the summit block. This snowfield ends in cliffs below you, so this section is deceptively dangerous. If it is melted off enough, it is usually safer to follow the rocks under the snowfield to a point where it can be climbed up directly. Practice your self-arrest before attempting this climb, or wait until it is all melted off.
The final difficulty is to climb the summit block via the big chimney on the south side, which reaches the summit ridge west of the summit. Climb this chimney, and then move north to the west side of the peak where the final few feet are climbed from the west (via another wide chimney). As I recall, the entire summit block can be climbed in a single pitch.