Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Kid Goat Buttress

Grey Waves S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keelhaul Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Twilight Zone T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 500 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,526 total, 27/month
Shared By: ihategrigris on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


16 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Old access crosses private property Details

Description

This beautiful route is a classic 5.8 sport route. Cool moves, excellent rock, and great exposure define this route.

Pitch 1 (5.8 - 50m) - Climb up an arrete then out onto the face. Pass at possibly belay at 20m. Cross three overhangs to the belay station (shared with Keel Haul Wall), the second overhang is the toughest.

Pitch 2 (5.8 - 25m) - ignore the bolt on the overhang to the right; this belongs to KHW; instead move stright up from the belay past two fixed pins and a possible, bomber 'knot' placement (jam a prussick into the crack; you know you want to!) move right onto the slab to the first bolt (30' runout). Climb up to the crux overhang the over and to the anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.7 - 30m) Traverse to the right to the obvious, bolt protected weakness then straight up following the hard to see bolts to the anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.7 - 30m) Traverse right along the bolts on easy slab, there is one tricky vertical spot half way up.

Pitch 5 (5.6 - 20m) Follow the bolts to the left along the slab to the obvious top out (usually pretty slimy rock here). Belay off the tree.

Decent: Walk off as for KHW.

Location

Located slightly left of Keel Haul Wall, look for the bolts 5 meters left of the start of KHW, start from the small bay.

Protection

Alpine Sport - significant runouts between bolts on easy terrain, but all cruxs are well protected. Exposure and runouts can be intimidating for the new leader.

Photos

MattR
  5.9
MattR  
  5.9
A fun route for sure. I'd say the crux moves were at least hard 5.9, probably higher for those not used to the rock type and style of climbing. Also, and maybe this is just me, some of the clipping stances felt very awkward, with bolts placed just out of reach from great ledges in sections of friction slab. A little rude when the route is already a hair run out. Several bolts were also very hard to see from below, which again seemed unnecessary and uncalled for.

Still, great movement and exposure. By no means a dangerous route, but a little quirky. Contrary to popular advice, I would not recommend it as a first multipitch: something like Aftonroe in the park is much better suited to the beginner. Nov 4, 2015
Tom Gnyra

  5.9-
Tom Gnyra    
  5.9-
not pg13, more interesting than KHW Apr 16, 2015
There are a couple of sequences through the first two pitches that hit the low 5.10 mark and it did feel a bit run out, but the "fun factor" on this route was great with the level of exposure for the grade.

The 30' run out has had a bolt added Jul 15, 2014
jon jugenheimer
Madison, WI
  5.8
jon jugenheimer   Madison, WI  
  5.8
I believe that there were bolts added since this route was first posted on MP. I do not think that it would feel run out to the 5.8 leader.

We also raped the route as there were not parties below us. 3 double rope raps to the ground. Sep 1, 2010