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Venus Envy
5.10a,
Sport,
Avg: 2.1 from 117
votes
FA: Ed Esmond 8/98
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Venus Wall
Description
As the name suggests, this route is great for those who have not risen to the level of Venus on a Halfshell (5.12c). Though not as classic as its neighbor, it is fun on those occasions when it is dry. It lives in a waterfall all spring, and is a wall of ice in the winter. It can be a good warm up for the crimpfest routes to the left.
Start up the corner on easier but sometimes dirty or spider-infested rock heading up and right. The crux steps left on to steep rock for a brief section of difficulty followed by an anchor.
Location
Venus Envy starts in the shallow corner between the steep, clean, left side of the cliff and the dirty, unused, waterfall section of rock.
[Hide Photo] the rusty anchor of Venus Envy... hey you wouldnt looks so hot either if you spent the winter under 10 feet of ice... there is another better looking anchor a little to the left that is easy to get…
[Hide Photo] Lily reaches the anchor... and a photographer...
[Hide Photo] lilt doing what she does best... crimping...
[Hide Photo] lily feeling for the holds as things get steeper rachel on belay...
[Hide Comment] i climbed this one today and was sketched out by the super rusted anchor... the lower rings are ok but the the glue-ins and links are wicked rusty... just FYI...
Aug 20, 2007
[Hide Comment] Same for me, Lee - except I was sketched enough to use the anchor to the left instead. Given that the glue-ins and quick-links are completely covered with rust and the rap rings don't have a spot, are we looking at a mixed stainless/non-stainless issue here?
Aug 2, 2010
[Hide Comment] This route is worth doing if dry, not classic but has some really fun moves. The anchors are sketchy for sure but they held me :)
Aug 18, 2010
[Hide Comment] Jake, I scratched my head upon reading that as well until I realized that the "R" is for the Rusty anchors at the top of this climb. I would probably traverse left and use Neptune's acnhors, as he suggested, if I ever find myself cleaning draws off this climb.
Dec 8, 2010
[Hide Comment] I climbed this today and really liked it. The bottom was very sharp, but the business up top had more comfortable holds. Don't bail because of the sharp stuff! (It left me very bloody handed, though.)
Not sure who did the job, but the anchors have been replaced with all-stainless gear. They looked good to me today (although the corroded stuff in the photos also looked OK to me: plenty strong in spite of the rust). Galvanic corrosion was certainly part of the equation, but I suspect it had more to do with Selsun Blue forming and the waterfall running over it for 50% of the last 15 years.
Oct 6, 2013
[Hide Comment] I don't know if I was off route or what, but right before what I recall being the last bolt before the anchors the holds got really bad (right after you move back left on to the face and you start moving up), far worse than I would expect on a 10a route. I ended up pulling the draw as I was also a bit worried about hitting the ledge below in the event of a fall. I hope the problem was just me being off route.
Jan 8, 2015
[Hide Comment] Matt, for me I always find the holds on this route are tricky and interesting. Its all about which holds you use. There are a lot of options but not all are good.
Jan 8, 2015
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I would probably traverse left and use Neptune's acnhors, as he suggested, if I ever find myself cleaning draws off this climb. Dec 8, 2010
Rumney, NH
Not sure who did the job, but the anchors have been replaced with all-stainless gear. They looked good to me today (although the corroded stuff in the photos also looked OK to me: plenty strong in spite of the rust). Galvanic corrosion was certainly part of the equation, but I suspect it had more to do with Selsun Blue forming and the waterfall running over it for 50% of the last 15 years. Oct 6, 2013
Vermont, USA
Center Harbor, NH