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Routes in The Sanford Wall

Big One, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fish-eyed Fool S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grey Matter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Junkyard S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rollo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
You Big Dummy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eddie Whittemore - 1992
Page Views: 1,119 total, 9/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Suffering by comparison with the much better routes on the Sanford Wall, Grey Matter is also a little sandbagged. The tree that leans inches away from the rock is awkward to avoid as you climb, and in places tempting to use as part of the climb.

Starting below a right-facing arete, follow the corner past bolts and a hollow flake to the top.

Location

Sanford Wall section, at the far right end of the wall, where a tree grows close to the rock.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchors.

Photos

Attention!! Climbed this yesterday, nut fell off the first bolt. Luckily my partner had already clipped a couple above.. Nov 13, 2017
Chris Hara
Atlanta, GA
Chris Hara   Atlanta, GA
Don't think it's worth anyone's time. There are so many better climbs at Foster Falls. May 2, 2015
Somewhat interesting 5.9. First bolt is pretty high and would be a bad fall because of rocks below, but the climbing at the start is pretty easy. The tree is weird. Worth doing especially if you lead it. Jun 16, 2013
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
Bolts are back. Not sure why you would want to climb it though. Aug 27, 2012
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
Concur with Lid. As of Dec 17, 2o10 first bolt (or two) was missing. As such, dont think this route gets much action. Dec 21, 2010
lid
lid  
Missing a bolt (or 2) at the bottom. Maybe 25 ft. to the first available bolt. Apr 5, 2010