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Routes in Castle Rock - Southeast Face

Chainmail T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crocs in the Moat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crossbow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drawbridge, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Knightline T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Murder Hole, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Round Table T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Taj T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: (TR) unknown, FL: Brad Singer, October 2001
Page Views: 2,913 total, 22/month
Shared By: Isaac T. on Mar 19, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The first bolt is about 40 feet up but you can place gear on easy 5.8+ cracks to the first bolt if you don't feel comfortable running it out. The crux is found when you have to pull the roof although you have very good hands and a bolt right at your waist. The final crux is moving to the last bolt kind of a tricky slab move on thin hands. This one is rope stretcher a 60 m rope was not long enough to lower all the way to the ground.

Location

This route is hard to miss it follows a prominent corner up to a cool looking roof.

Protection

7 bolts and medium to small cams (I used a #1 Camalot and a .5 Camalot), 2 bolt anchor at the top.
Dan Freeman
Los Angeles
  5.10a
Dan Freeman   Los Angeles
  5.10a
Great route, solid 10a but not harder. There are many places to plug in pro in the section leading up to the bolts - I think I put in 4 pieces. The roof is no big deal; a left hand with a good opposing thumb slots perfectly high into the left-slanting crack above your head and to the right of the X marked block, then moving your feet up should allow you to easily gain the big jug/plate above the roof. This line is about two feet to the right of the beta photo posted here and follows the bolt line. I took Nelson's advice and placed a BD #1 cam between the roof bolts for peace of mind. I think there may have been a couple of extra bolts placed on the top slab (5.9). Total may now be about 9 bolts plus anchors. Chains at the top appear to be in good order. A 60m rope was *just* too short to reach the ground proper but if the belayer stands on one of the boulders at the bottom it will work out fine. Knot the end!

You can use a long bit of webbing to set up a TR for Kremlin Wall (11d, no route beta on MP but appears to follow some old sketchy bolts) on the face around the corner to the left, or King of the Castle (12a, no route beta on MP) which ascends the recently bolted arete just to the left of Knightline. Sep 6, 2016
A solid 5-10a. Don't be fooled...from below, we thought that the thin cracks looked easy and that the roof would be the crux of the climb. My partner led this climb, and it is clear that the real business is that crack. It is an extremely technical crack and honestly, the roof is protected by bolts. Placing gear in that looked quite difficult (my partner was definitely climbing at his limit). The roof is harder than it once was. Not sure what you would rate that reach. The good hold on the left is indeed marked with an X and is about to break off. This forces you to work your feet higher and make a crazy reach to the right. Aug 18, 2015
Dan G.
  5.10a
Dan G.  
  5.10a
Did not see chalk X but a horizontal thin hold for the roof looks iffy. I went right and found another good hold above it. Sep 1, 2014
Rob M
Shangri-LA
 
Rob M   Shangri-LA
 
Block at roof is marked as loose with chalk X. Looks dicey.... Oct 9, 2012
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10a
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10a
Thanks much for the bolt upgrade! Jul 22, 2012
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
Thanks todd! Jul 18, 2012
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Anchors have been replaced as of May 12, 2012...with good solid bolts with lower off or rap chains. 5.10a/b sounds about right...Great great climb... May 13, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10a/b
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10a/b
Anchor update: The anchors at the top are still in very bad shape. I ended up having to thread the rope through two hangers for another climb on the top of the climb. After I rapelled off, the rope didn't want to pull. I had to put my entire weight on the rope to get it to pull through the two hangers. Definitely less than ideal. If you are planning on doing this climb, I would recommend taking some webbing with you to the top to thread through the bolt hangers; you can rappel off of the webbing after you put it through the hangers.

Other than that, what an amazing climb! This climb has a little of everything for you! I took a standard rack with me up the climb, and placed about 5 pieces below the first bolt. I had to do a couple finger jams on the lower sections of the climb. There is plenty of trad protection, but make sure you bring a rack with pieces up to 2". I placed a #1 below the crux and between the upper bolts. The bolt at the crux is above the roof, and unless you feel comfortable climbing past the lower section of the crux and relying on the bolt 5 feet below you, this cam is needed.

I used a 70m rope, and when I reached the ground, both ends of the rope were on the ground. I definitely recommend this climb! Great moves and great rock! Replacing the anchor at the top would make this climb a must do in the castle rock area! Aug 8, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
As mentioned by Susan; there is a two-bolt anchor up and left of this one (as you arrive at the anchor), quite close. Also to the right of and behind the anchor (facing it) there is a nice crack, which would take some 2"-3" cams. If you're going to top-rope though you'll need to hike to the top and set the anchor up with long slings - or lead up with 'biners and a cordelette/webolette. Aug 1, 2011
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9
Good route, not real hard, plenty of rests, and eats up pro, especially since there are a stack of bolts available for your clipping pleasure. I thought there was some fairly suspect loose rock just below the roof and I did not think the jug that forms the left edge of the roof could withstand my assault. Be careful if you are somewhat large or like to pull outwards on jugs. Anchors are a sad mess and do not have lower-offs on the bolts. Jul 10, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Anchor Report unchanged as of 7/9/11. Backup possible using old SMC bolts behind the set in question. Threads (on bolt climber's right) appear to be stripped so replacement will likely be necessary. Jul 10, 2011
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Interesting climbing up a vertical face utilizing cracks and face holds leads to the crux roof where a long reach to an incut plate enables access to the upper slabby face. Kind of a one-move wonder with the crux being out of place with the rest of the route. Highly recommended. Aug 16, 2010
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
The climb pictured is Knightline and I feel it is 10a , the Singer guide also calls it 10a. May 7, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Josh, perhaps you're thinking of The Roofs (5.10d)? The climb pictured is Knightline. Mar 29, 2007
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.10
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.10
I thought Knightline was two or three climbs to the left of this one. Not sure of the name of the climb pictured, but I believe it is more of a 5.10a. Knightline, which is more on the face around the left corner of this climb, goes at 5.10C with two sets of crux moves. I could be wrong... I will see if I can figure it out in my old guide book. Mar 29, 2007