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Routes in J Crags

Aguille Du Tangelo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bottle Tester, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Dread Naught T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feeding the Rat - Part II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hunter, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Milwaukee's Best S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rabbits Trod. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Silver Lining T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sunshine Slab. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Velnio Akmuo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 850 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: L. Bateman, B. Folsom
Page Views: 1,613 total · 12/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Mar 18, 2007 with updates
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The climb begins at the far right (North) side of the Sunshine Slab formation. It ascends a slot/groove inbetween Sunshine Slab and the larger, unnamed slot to the North. Then the climb ascends the amazing right leaning, white ramp system bisecting the North face of the buttress. At the mouth of the canyon, scramble up a 15’ step to reach the bottom of the 1st pitch.
Pitch 1- Climb the slab on the left hand side of the canyon, up and right on brown rock passing two bolts to reach a two bolt anchor at the bottom of the next slot. 115’ 5.7 PG
Pitch 2- Continue up the slot and solo up a 15’ step (5.7 PG). Continue to a 30 foot step and solo up it at 5.8 R (no pro). Continue to the base of another slab.
Pitch 3- Climb the groove on the right of the slab then traverse back left across the slab to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. 150’ 5.3 X
Pitch 4- This is the beginning of the beautiful white and striped ramp system. Move up the ledge/slot to a chockstone. Climb a faint prow passing 7 bolts up and right to a two bolt anchor and hanging belay. 120’ 5.11b PG
Pitch 5- Climb up and right following an amazing brown dike passing 8 bolts to a two bolt anchor and another hanging belay. 140’ 5.11c PG
Pitch 6- Easier climbing up and right passing two bolts, then up and left to a two bolt anchor on a ledge near the top of the buttress.
From here, an easy scramble to the South (4th class) leads one to the top of the buttress where Dread Naught and Sunshine Slab top out.

Gear: Quickdraws and Long Slings. A small selection of cams may be somewhat useful. Might be smart to bring a small emergency bolt kit.

Descent: One can descend Sunshine Slab if you can find the anchors. The first ascend party descended the route. Scramble back to the belay atop pitch 6. Rappel to the top of pitch 5. From there a two rope rappel leads down into the slot. Downclimb the slot (5.6) to the belay atop pitch 3. Rappel the slab and descend the slot to the top of the 30’ 5.8 step. Instead of downclimbing back into the slot, an easier slab to the North can be downclimbed to the bottom of the slot and the anchor for pitch 1. A double rope rappel from there leads to the base of the route.

Protection

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Photos

BobGray
Salt Lake City, Utah
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
anymore details about the description available? Dec 27, 2012
apross  
Bob, the route was submitted by some guy called Ben Folsom. Drop him an email and maybe he can help you out. Dec 27, 2012

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