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Routes in The Zoo

Calder's Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excessive Bail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning Bolt S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey Bars S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zoo, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Calder Stratford
Page Views: 150 total · 1/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 17, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Short climb on interesting limestone with vertical striations. Start on thin crimps to the first bolt, then fairly straightforward to the second bolt (but don’t fall before clipping the second).

The third clip is awkward on slopers and sidepulls, and the sequence after the third bolt is not obvious. I found myself wondering “How in the world am I going to get from here to the chains? This has to be harder than 5.8” Once I figured it out, I thought, “Oh.”

Location

Opposite the main Zoo wall, left of the mine entrance.

Protection

3 bolts to chains

Photos

Canyon Copa  
 
Don't bring your first-timers here. The moves take some thinking and technique that will kick their butts. There's also a route that starts just to the right and goes way up to the right that's probably a 9 or so. Not really worth it. May 30, 2012
Nich Cloward
American Fork
Nich Cloward   American Fork
After having my foot slip off of what looked like a good hold, and getting pumped looking for the way up, I pulled a mantle on the right and made it up. I feel like I went off route and want to get back to it. And I'm taking a toothbrush next time. Aug 1, 2009
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.8+
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.8+
My only complaint was that it wasn't longer. There is a huge no hands rest before one tenuous move. Fun while it lasted. Jul 2, 2009
I was doing a personal goal of 30 routes in a day on my 30th birthday (The 30 at 30 challenge). It originally was supposed to be 30 routes of 5.10 or over but after my belayer ditched me for about 2 hours to take a dump (push harder!) I lost my groove and had to settle for routes under 5.10. I added this route to my list when I needed another quickie and I was getting tired. BIG MISTAKE! this route is included in the: "not really 5.8" group of routes so infamous in R.C. I felt like I was going to die when I felt a huge pump flow into my arms while I tried to solve the sequence...be ready for a MUCH harder route than you think. Mar 13, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I had to take on this route when I did it 4 years ago. I nearly dislocated my shoulder trying to climb the thing, did some moves that felt like 5.10, and eventually made it to the chains. Weird. I still need to go back and get the redpoint, I guess... Jul 14, 2008