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Routes in The Zoo

Calder's Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excessive Bail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning Bolt S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey Bars S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zoo, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tom Caldwell
Page Views: 1,752 total, 13/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 17, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Description

Vertical climbing on solid limestone. A thin start in small, sharp two- and three-finger pockets and small footholds to the first bolt. Mostly slopers and sidepulls after that, but there is a jug or two. A few holds look like they might come off in your hand, but they proved bomber.

The route is essentially vertical to the third bolt, then slopes back a bit, and finally is slightly overhanging from the fourth bolt to the chains. (Slightly overhanging meaning: you don’t really notice it as you climb it, but as you lower off you think, “Oh, that’s why it felt that way...”)

Location

Right-most route on the main Zoo wall (the wall facing the gap through which The Zoo is entered).

Protection

6 bolts to chains

Photos

Tim Moore
  5.10b/c
Tim Moore  
  5.10b/c
Very tricky first start really only one way to do it with very limited foot holds and a rather higher first bolt although the fall isn't bad at all. Probably the best belay spot in the entire canyon. Mar 29, 2014
Nathaniel Holt
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Nathaniel Holt   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
I agree with Kenny, the start wasn't the crux for me either, it was the slightly overhanging slopers at the top. I wish the finger pockets at the start lasted longer also, they are awesome! Jun 13, 2012
Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.10b
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.10b
The finger pockets on the bottom of the route were sweet! I didn't feel like that was the hardest part of the climb for me. The slopey holds on the rest of the route (which was in the sun at the time) were tougher for me. It was probably all the sweat. I wish the bottom part of the route were longer, and it would definitely get another star from me. Jul 4, 2011
Christopher Miller  
  5.10b
When i did this climb yesterday i wasnt sure what any of them were rated...bad idea when you arent an amazing climber! Tricky beginning but i agree, stay to the left its much better climbing! Aug 14, 2009
Bad Sock Puppet
  5.10b
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.10b
The crux is definitely the start. Small sharp pockets with sketchy feet until you clip the first bolt. Go along small crimpy rail to better but not obvious holds. Easy top-out. Sep 14, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
An unintended consequence of bolting Monkey Bars is that there is now a more direct ending to this route. Instead of going left at the third bolt, go straight up to the 4th bolt of Monkey Bars. This variation is probably easier than the original The Zoo route, but not as good. Stick to the classic. Aug 25, 2008
The first half is really good. Up higher the character changed a bit wishing for more of the first part. May 9, 2008
tenesmus  
 
Really cool finger pocket sequence Mar 18, 2007