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Routes in Jimmy Cliff - East Face

Bronto's or Us, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cliff Hanger T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Dick Van Dyke TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Dike, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Fiendish Fists T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Friendly Hands T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Harder They Fall, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Third World T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Andy Brown & Lotus Steele, April 1987
Page Views: 99 total · 1/month
Shared By: Will S on Mar 16, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Edit]

This intermittent thin crack in a sort of right facing flake system takes the line immediately to the right of Friendly Hands, passing a single bolt (old, not confidence inspiring) in the vicinity of the crux. While the old bolt on this route has been replaced, it is still a heads-up lead. The Vogel guide gives this 5.10b, consensus will likely settle a bit higher. Although short, the climbing is fairly continuous with a very distinct crux.

Location [Edit]

On the right side of the east face of Jimmy Cliff, starting in the same place as Friendly Hands and taking the thin crack/flake and face line about 5' to the right. There is a lone bolt at 2/3 height.

Protection [Edit]

Emphasis on thin stuff...small wires and cams, one bolt (1/2" SS). There is a two-bolt anchor/rap station (1/2" SS) on the ledge.

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Bob Gaines
  5.10d PG13
Bob Gaines  
  5.10d PG13
Kevin Powell, Frank Bentwood and I replaced the bolt with a 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel bolt, December 2009.

The two 1/4 inch button heads at the anchor were also replaced with 1/2 inch diameter stainless steel bolts and rings. Dec 12, 2009
andybb  
Thanks! Jan 7, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10+
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10+
a couple difficult and awkward moves on this one, ugh. Mar 28, 2011

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