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Routes in Bullet Hole Wall

American Express TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bullet Hole Face T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b V2 5+
Bullet Hole Wall Crack?? T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V1 5
Bullet Hole Wall Mantle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Face left of American Express TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Friction Seam V2 5+
Seam V0 4
Type: Trad, Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,005 total · 15/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Mar 12, 2007
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Crack that goes straight up through the right side of the bullet hole wall.

Location

Obvious crack that splits the right side of the Bullet Hole Wall.

Protection

Skill. Could lead or TR on cams as a fall from the top would hurt.

Photos

Elush
CA
  5.7
Elush   CA
  5.7
A bomber ring lock near the top makes this problem feel very 5.7 like. one of the more fun cracks at Santee imo. Aug 31, 2016
Chris Kehoe
  5.7 V-easy
Chris Kehoe  
  5.7 V-easy
I'd say the fall equates to most of the difficulty rating. If you know good jams it's mostly in your head. Sep 20, 2015
Mike Radford
Orange, CA
  5.8
Mike Radford   Orange, CA
  5.8
don't fall when you get close to the top. the little shelf at the bottom is a for sure ankle twister. Feb 25, 2012
Fun climb- maybe rated at V1 Dec 30, 2011
IMO this thing always felt a bit harder than 5.7. Certainly harder than Double Cross at Josh. The moves are comitting, and...

Yes, the fall from this problem could certainly hurt. On 1/2/07 my friend Jessica fell from the crux finger moves about 3/4 of the way up this crack. I spotted her from the back breaking boulders behind. She caught her foot in that juggy ledge in the dihedral that is like 1 foot from the ground, and there was a sickening *CRACK*. Holding her from behind, I looked down to see her left leg bent 30 degrees at mid-shin. She screamed, not from pain, but because of the sight of her broken leg. "Its all right, honey," I said. "You broke your leg, but you're going to be fine."

To make a long story short she badly fractured both her tibia and fibula in her left leg. She went through surgery on 1/8 to have an intramedullary rod put in her tibia. Her spring season was ruined but by late March she was beginning to walk again, by May she was climbing again and by June she was leading harder than ever. She even boulders again (a little more carefully.) Amazing girl.

I owe a big thank-you to the guys who were there that day. I never even found out their names, but their help was invaluable in facilitating the minor rescue operation that ensued, including calling the ambulance and helping to transport Jessica to the vehicle. We are both lucky you guys were there that day, and that you spent an hour helping us instead of climbing. You guys rock. Jul 5, 2007