Avg: 3 from 25 votes
Routes in (4) Mud Pile
|Blacklisted S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Carla The Stripper S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Edge of the World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Jacobs-Strain Line S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Kid Packed Minivan From Hell S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Loose Hookers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1|
|Lusty Lady S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Marsupial Madness S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Marsupials Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Mini Half Dome S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|My Name is Mud S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Rampage S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Spankie's Quest For The Nectar Hole S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Truth Assassin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Tuff Shit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Xenophobe S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||5,326 total, 41/month|
|Shared By:||corvegas on Mar 12, 2007|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionThe Marsupials Traverse is probably the longest climb at Smith. Much of it is pretty runout with dangerous falls, but no runouts harder than 5.5ish climbing, though some of this is on loose rock. Not a good first route, but if your solid at the grade on runouts this is an awsome climb. There are multiple ways to start this route, how ever you choose to get to the top of the mudpile is up to you. I will describe the easiest way starting with Carla the Stripper.
P1 - 5.8 - Follow the boltline atop the block, up and to anchors.
P2 - 5.7 - Step out and left and follow bolts to the top, or step right 5.4 and follow bolts to the top.
Downclimb off the north end of the mudpile to a single bolt belay.
P3 - 5.7R - Continue traversing towards Mini Half dome, clip one bolt and make one harder move onto the top of the thing next to Mini Half Dome. There is one more bolt here you can clip. Now either stem or jump the gap to Mini HD. Belay from bolt anchor. Easy runouts.
Rappel off the north side of Mini HD.
P4 - 5.5R/X - This is a long 200ft pitch, with runouts on 5.4 climbing. Follow the west face route of Brogan spire. Immediatly clip one bolt and make the hardest move of the pitch. The follow the easiest line, as far as you can make it to a double bolt belay atop the huge ledge. Oppritunity exists for akward gear placements, tho if you fell at some points you could go a long way. (rated X by Watts)
P5 - 5.5R - The bird shit pitch! Head straight up placeing a few peices before running it out into the bird shit. Mantle to the top through the bird shit.
Rappel north into the notch move belay to double bolted belay atop original P2 of the cave route.
P6 - 5.4R - Head north towards the tail, cut left accross an akward ledge to the north side of the tail, then clip a bolt and head to anchors below the summit. Belay your partner to the top then have him down climb and lead the next pitch. Rotten rock on this pitch.
P7 - 5.5 - For the seconds sake (if you dont moove the belay) it is best to only clip the last of the 3 bolts. Clipping the first two might create some akward rope drag and could create a nasty fall for the second when downclimbing from the anchor. Either way follow the path of three bolts up good rock to anchor atop the opossum.
Either do a double rope rappel or...
P8 - 5.1R - Traverse along the ridge to an old anchor with slings. From here one 60m makes it to the ground.