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Sara's Spire
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C1 R
Type: | Trad, Aid, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | A. Gram, Glime: March 07 |
Page Views: | 1,910 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | John J. Glime on Mar 12, 2007 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane |
Description
This is a neat formation. It is a little bit dirty, but the rock is decent.
Start from the north side. Follow a crack system to the first chimney/offwidth (this is the R section unless you have really big cams.) Move left to the next chimney and either free climb past bolts, or aid C0 through this chimney. Traverse right to a really nice finger/small hands crack that leads to the top. Aid this crack at C1 or go for the free ascent.
Descent: I believe a 60 meter rope would work, but trail a second rope to be safe.
Start from the north side. Follow a crack system to the first chimney/offwidth (this is the R section unless you have really big cams.) Move left to the next chimney and either free climb past bolts, or aid C0 through this chimney. Traverse right to a really nice finger/small hands crack that leads to the top. Aid this crack at C1 or go for the free ascent.
Descent: I believe a 60 meter rope would work, but trail a second rope to be safe.
Location
There are two ways to get to it.
1) I-70, take exit 108 and head north along the dirt road (high clearance vehicle recommended.) You will see the spire out on your left, you will come to a good graded gravel road, take a left, drive a mile or so to the butte, turn left, park and walk 20 minutes to the spire.
2) I-70, get off on exit 116, travel northwest on this graded gravel road (called Moore Rd.) Drive a few miles until you see the butte and spire on your left. Turn left to park on the butte, park, and walk 20 minutes to the spire.
1) I-70, take exit 108 and head north along the dirt road (high clearance vehicle recommended.) You will see the spire out on your left, you will come to a good graded gravel road, take a left, drive a mile or so to the butte, turn left, park and walk 20 minutes to the spire.
2) I-70, get off on exit 116, travel northwest on this graded gravel road (called Moore Rd.) Drive a few miles until you see the butte and spire on your left. Turn left to park on the butte, park, and walk 20 minutes to the spire.
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