Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: A. Gram, Glime: March 07
Page Views: 2,127 total · 10/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Mar 12, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a neat formation. It is a little bit dirty, but the rock is decent.

Start from the north side. Follow a crack system to the first chimney/offwidth (this is the R section unless you have really big cams.) Move left to the next chimney and either free climb past bolts, or aid C0 through this chimney. Traverse right to a really nice finger/small hands crack that leads to the top. Aid this crack at C1 or go for the free ascent.

Descent: I believe a 60 meter rope would work, but trail a second rope to be safe.

Location Suggest change

There are two ways to get to it.

1) I-70, take exit 108 and head north along the dirt road (high clearance vehicle recommended.) You will see the spire out on your left, you will come to a good graded gravel road, take a left, drive a mile or so to the butte, turn left, park and walk 20 minutes to the spire.

2) I-70, get off on exit 116, travel northwest on this graded gravel road (called Moore Rd.) Drive a few miles until you see the butte and spire on your left. Turn left to park on the butte, park, and walk 20 minutes to the spire.

Protection Suggest change

For the lower section, the biggest cams you can find! For the middle section, clip three bolts. For the upper section, blue aliens to number three camalot, with a lot of .5 and .75 camalot sizes.