Avg: 3 from 23 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 180 ft|
|FA:||Duane Raleigh, Schooley 1976|
|Page Views:||1,838 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||Daniel S on Mar 11, 2007|
Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
A long (for on pitch) slabby climb that gets easier as you go up. Once you have reached the belay station, you can walk on the slab (though not recommended). The crux is passing the first blot using moderate friction climbing.
Rout starts essentially the same as Great Expectations and the Dihedral. From the start, veer right onto the steep slab past the first bolt, (crux) then continue up to a horizontal crack where a small cam can be placed. Continue up past another bolt and then to a vertical running crack that can be used as protection. Once the crack ends, run it out on easy 5.0 or less friction climbing to the anchor. Use two ropes to rappel down.