Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft
FA: Duane Raleigh, Schooley 1976
Page Views: 1,902 total · 13/month
Shared By: Daniel S on Mar 11, 2007
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route

23 Opinions

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Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details


A long (for on pitch) slabby climb that gets easier as you go up. Once you have reached the belay station, you can walk on the slab (though not recommended). The crux is passing the first blot using moderate friction climbing.


Rout starts essentially the same as Great Expectations and the Dihedral. From the start, veer right onto the steep slab past the first bolt, (crux) then continue up to a horizontal crack where a small cam can be placed. Continue up past another bolt and then to a vertical running crack that can be used as protection. Once the crack ends, run it out on easy 5.0 or less friction climbing to the anchor. Use two ropes to rappel down.


Two bolts, small cams (3/4 inch to 2 inch), two rap bolts for anchor at top. Two ropes required for repel.


Jim D  
Very hard to toprope. The velcro-like slab at the top produces a great deal of friction. It doesn't take much to get a rope stuck rapping off this.

A very fun climb. Looks terrifying from the ground, 165 feet with only 2 bolts, but you can get cams in for much of it, and the last 50 feet is seriously 4th class-you're not going to fall if you got this far, I promise.

That said, this is far more serious than Great Expectations, where you always have a bomber hold and can put gear in anywhere you want. The protection goes in well-defined places here, cam, bolt, cam, bolt, cams in the crack, then the long run out. Nov 23, 2011
K. Bethke
  5.8 PG13
K. Bethke  
  5.8 PG13
Be careful pulling rope it can get stuck in vertical cracks at middle of climb on left side. May 12, 2013
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.8 PG13
Possibly my favorite climb I did at the refuge during my 2 days there! If you like slightly heady slabs with fun gear dinkering and well protected cruxes, this is your climb! Great rock and perfectly bolted, you won't fall far at the cruxes, but potential 50' whippers await you on the easier terrain above. A set of TCU's/Aliens to #1 C4 and some nuts will see you through.

Fun 5.8, PG-13ish. Boulder Canyon 5.10 X. Jan 24, 2014
Clay Studer
Dallas, TX
  5.9 PG13
Clay Studer   Dallas, TX
  5.9 PG13
It should be noted that the route is shown in both the original 1980 guidebook and in OK Select as going up the middle of the slab and does not use the vertical crack on the left. The crux is still by the first bolt, but I don't know if it feels like an R route if the crack is used for pro. Oct 22, 2015