[Hide Comment] Cool climb, bring a spider wand if you are the first one up it that day. May 9, 2007

[Hide Comment] If you are short, this climb gets quite hard in hurry. I watched someone that was about 5'4" do this and they were definitely having to do some 5.11 climbing. Nice route. Sep 7, 2009

[Hide Comment] The pin is gone. A bit more exciting charging to the last bolt. Nov 18, 2009

[Hide Comment] Best moderate at Rumney. Hard to clean on lowering, will you hit the tree? May 25, 2010

[Hide Comment] This route, along with Social Outcast, Social Distortion, Noodle, and Centerpiece are all a challenge to clean on lower. If you have to do it, retrieve the lowest one or two draws by climbing up a short distance from the base (after you have lowered all the way to the ground, without getting the lowest one or two draws). My 2 cents.

-SNeoh May 26, 2010

[Hide Comment] This route is really hard to clean. My suggestion is to clean to the last bolt and then tram in right above it. Then, have your partner lower you slowly out an an angle towards the ground. Afterwards, climb up and retrieve the draw. As always, having a partner who is willing to top rope afterwards is also an optimal solution. Sep 8, 2014

[Hide Comment] Quality route. The movement up the flake is super fun and that rest ledge is something you'll never want to crawl out of. As for the bolt spacing I didn't think it was too terrible. From the ground I noticed that if you were to fall, say, clipping the last bolt you could swing into the roof and take a good hit to the noggin but while I was climbing I didn't think about it at all. You're too busy cranking up that flake and the hold next to the last bolt is great to clip off of anyways. Also some beta on cleaning while lowering, I trammed to the third bolt and left it, then trammed down to second bolt and pulled it then jugged back to the third (this prevents an unexpected swing) then i just unhooked my tram and took the fun swing out into the air, I did have to kick off the tree though as I swung out so watch that. The first bolt we just scrambled up to unclip it. Sep 14, 2014

[Hide Comment] Now fully equipped with fat glue-in bolts for protection. Pin is no longer there. Anchors unchanged from before - chains with one locking biner and one regular biner. Quality route, stays dry in light rain /showers. Go do it! Aug 2, 2015

[Hide Comment] Saw a climber and belayer tethered together come swinging into a party on social outcast today while trying to clean.

For this climb, I strongly recommend having the last climber in a party clean while following on TR. Aug 13, 2017

[Hide Comment] Recently climbed this route again and thought I'd share a method to clean the draws: As noted elsewhere it can be a challenge to clean. After climbing the route and being lowered, when you are cleaning the last 4 or 5 draws and tramming.....I found it useful to go in direct at the bolt just below the rest ledge, feed the rope through that bolt --tie off a bite and clip it to your harness. Re-Tie in and then have your belayer lower you off that-- You'll need to down climb three moves to retrieve the next draw, leaving the first one in place to retrieve from the ground (requires you to climb the first couple moves to retrieve). Takes about 2-3 minutes and saves you a fair bit of hassle. Jun 25, 2019

[Hide Comment] Jason, so to be clear, were you then lowering off of a single bolt (presumably one of the big old glue ins? Just want to be sure I understand before I comment on your methods. Jun 25, 2019

[Hide Comment] Had a cleaning fiasco on this route. There are lots of ways to avoid it (see below), but do NOT clean backwards from the top to the bottom and release from the first or second bolt, because the swing is not safe for either the climber or the belayer. Jul 15, 2019

[Hide Comment] New perma draw installed on the second bolt. This is to ensure people won't get hurt when cleaning.
For those who don't know how to do it, here's the how to:
1-run your rope in the anchor as usual
2-clip a quickdraw on your harness loop
3-clip the other end of the draw on the belayer's side of the rope
4-clean the draws as you go down
5-once you get to the second draw(perma draw), put a second draw on your harness loop and clip the other end in the perma draw
6-ask your belayer to lower a bit until your hanging on the perma draw
7-clean the first draw and free the belayer's rope so he/she goes down to a vertical
8-clip your rope in the perma draw and ask the belayer to hold you tight
9-remove the other two draws and ask to be lowered Aug 2, 2019

[Hide Comment] Lee, yes I was lowering off a single glue in if I remember correctly. Looks bomber, are these known to pull out?.... I think I like Eric's method after ready it, seems like less logistics. Nov 19, 2020

[Hide Comment] Yes, stick with Eric’s method. That perma should keep folks safe so long as people understand how to use it properly.
Lowering off of a single bolt lacks redundancy so as a rule I wouldn’t recommend it. Also if that method were adopted as a standard for the route the bolt would wear and replacing it would be challenging at best. Nov 19, 2020

[Hide Comment] Do people generally top this out? My guess is no? I thought it was a cool top out! Though a bit lichen-ey, and maybe bumps it up a grade or two? Oct 5, 2021

[Hide Comment] The anchors used to be over the top and a bit back instead of near the lip to the left as they are now. So, yes, for many years we topped out. But the setup for a TR or follow was harder.
Grade unchanged. Oct 5, 2021

[Hide Comment] I topped out (after clipping the chains). Definitely fun and a must do, I wouldn't count it as a send if I didn't top out! Oct 6, 2021