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Routes in West Face

Cave Right T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fragrant Vegetable TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fresh Garlic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seed of Irony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stinking Rose, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
There and Back Again T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Kjell Benson & Lance Gunnerson, March 1989
Page Views: 468 total · 4/month
Shared By: SL8ON on Mar 6, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Fun moves up and out of a dihedral to a crack above.

Location

First crack right of There and Back Again.
Might want extra sling material for the rap.

Protection

Pro to 3".

Photos

Dan Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9-
Dan Evans   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9-
I was actually pleasantly surprised with how good this route was. It takes great gear overall and the bad rock can be easily avoided. The dihedral leading up to the "dish" below the roof is solid and protects well enough, but you may find the gear opportunities before the final roof pull slightly less inspiring. However, the sequence felt like a 5.8 jug haul and was not the crux of the route--so don't let that deter you from jumping on this one. After the roof, the rest of the route takes great gear on positive stances with one intermittent crux section past a slight bulge on positive face holds.

The route hasn't received much traffic so there are a few holds below the roof that are a bit gritty/sandy but the quality of the rock above it is solid. Once this cleans up a bit, I think it will easily be a three star route. This route has stemming, a no-hands rest (sit in the dish!), jug-hauling, hand jams, and a thoughtful crux. Everyone in our group really enjoyed the route and agreed that it deserved 2+ stars.

Gear: .5" - 4" & standard set of nuts
Anchor: 2" - 4" (I used two #3's and a #2 for a top-rope anchor; bring cord/long slings to extend it if you are top-roping)
Descent: 1.) Rap off the slung boulder down a short chimney on the opposite side of the formation; 2.) then with your back facing the rap route, walk out to your left. Jan 9, 2017
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.8+
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.8+
Be careful at the start. Some of the potential cam placements are either behind dubious flakes or in sandy flares. There is a hidden solid placement in the back to protect the big move over the roof (1.25 Friend).

Bring at least 10 feet worth of sling material. Apr 20, 2008