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Routes in Space Wall

Alien Sex S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side Of The Moon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kwijibo S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Made in Japan S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Moonshadow S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neanderthal Dudes S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Purple Toupee S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sun Spots T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,230 total, 9/month
Shared By: 426 on Mar 6, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Fun climb on the black rock to the right of Made in Japan.

Take some draws and enjoy this route. I forget where the crux was. I have also seen this route go on natural pro, but it seemed like dicey crap in some of the flakes.

Location

50' right of Made in Japan, off some ledge systems. Fun climbing and a good warmup for the harder routes on Space Wall.

Lower/rap.

Protection

5 bolts, anchors.

Photos

Alex Grande  
 
Really nice climb. Getting to the first bolt is at first scary given the jagged rock below, but once you see how many feet there are soon enough you are on-belay. Middle area has a subtle chest squeeze, but with a bit of feet work you are at the next positive hold moving quickly up to the next bolt.

The crux is definitely at the last bolt before the anchors where I found it easiest to do a boulderly side pulls on an arete with a high left foot smearing. If you reach around the arete on the inside you'll find positive holds to sink into and pull yourself up and over.

Well protected. Aug 14, 2017
Rick D
Reno, NV
  5.10d
Rick D   Reno, NV
  5.10d
Kind of wierd moves at fourth bolt. Mar 16, 2009