PRINT: Rock Climb Penguin Lust, Lake Tahoe

Penguin Lust

5.12c, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 27 votes
FA: Doug Mischler, the 80's
California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner Summit > Rd Cut, The

Description

Incredible "main" face of the Roadcut.

Killer technical pocket climbing. Sustained and thin. There are a couple of cruxes low; you'll need your footwork dialed to send them...

Save some juice for the top...rockfall may have made this a bit harder.

Location

The "you just can't miss it" orange face. Starts off the highest ledge system at Roadcut.

Protection

8 bolts, lower-off anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The brainchild of P.L.

Pockets at Donner?

Penguin Lust (photo by Nuno Montiero)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ

5.12c

Classic, sustained route. This was luckily undamaged by the recent Totem Pile rockfall. Mar 15, 2015

R Rod

This is the hardest "5.12c" I have ever been on. It honestly does not feel that much easier than Warp Factor. 5.12d in my opinion. A classic nonetheless. Sep 7, 2015

fm364 JM
Reno, NV

Hardest part is getting the sequence dialed! Super fun route. Oct 13, 2015

Josh Harmon
Mammoth Lakes, CA

Felt not that tweaky and not sandbagged by Donner standards, but perhaps my partner and I just had a good day. Unique, both in aesthetics and movement - classic! Aug 6, 2020

James Moffatt
Reno NV

5.12c

Incredible technical and sequency movement, pump factor, and easy approach earns a full 4 stars.

Roadwork operations during summer 2023 cleared or blasted loose rock from this formation. Penguin Lust itself was not further damaged, but there is a death flake 5 feet above and to the right of the anchor, within arms reach. It is loose and will certainly kill your belayer if it falls. The flake directly to the right of the anchor is still solid. Nov 21, 2023