Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: K. Henderson and R. Underhill, 1929
Page Views: 1,621 total · 11/month
Shared By: George Bell on Mar 5, 2007
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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This route begins from the col between Skyline Peak and the Sphinx. It is much more alpine to approach this col from the Dinwoody Glacier side, which involves glacier travel and crossing a bergschrund. However, I believe we gained the col from the SW (Titcomb Basin).

From the col you are faced with a 600 foot high step. Stay left for a pitch, then traverse right back onto the crest. Above the step are several gendarmes that you will have to figure out how to get past. Be sure to yodel to startle the parties crossing the glacier below on their way to Gannett Peak.

This route looks really cool from below but if you are expecting another Wolf's Head think again. The ridge is not as knife-like and the rock is not as solid, but the position is great.

From the summit, descend the NW Ridge (5.1), which may involve a rappel. You can then descend either to the Dinwoody Glacier side or to Titcomb Basin. However, decending north may require jumping a bergschrund (rather memorable on the FA).


Light rack.