Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 500 ft, Grade II
FA: H. Buchtel, J. Seerley, D. Smith, 1930
Page Views: 1,003 total · 7/month
Shared By: George Bell on Mar 5, 2007
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route

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From Upper Titcomb Basin, head up the drainage leading to the peak. Near the base of the peak, you will have to cross a small glacier, the Sphinx Glacier, with a problematic moraine to cross.

The inset couloir is in the center of the face and obvious once you are close. This couloir is generally snow-filled until July and you can see the snow from Titcomb Basin. If it has melted out do not climb this route (move around to the west to the west couloir).

Snap on your crampons and head straight up the narrow couloir. It is not as long as you might think, soon you'll reach a notch in the summit ridge. From here, a 5.1 pitch leads to the top, or you can solo up and down this section (I would rate it 4th class).


Crampons and ice axe. A few rock pieces, possibly.


Descend the route.


Sarah Meiser
Boulder, CO
Sarah Meiser   Boulder, CO
We climbed this in poor condition because we really wanted to make the summit of Woodrow Wilson. The bottom of the couloir was melted out and required a very loose Class 4+ pitch. Snow above was rotten so we stayed roped up and simulclimbed, placing occasional pro in the couloir walls.

A series of old rappel anchors set up for double rope rappels got us back down. Lightning struck the summit during our descent. We were perhaps 200 feet down the couloir at the time and some of us got shocked through the wet rocks! I was leaning on a ledge, clipped in to an anchor, and felt my arm get zapped. Then a river of graupel unlike anything we had ever seen before flowed down the couloir for a few minutes. After that it was mostly over and we headed back to camp. Scary!!! Jul 16, 2012