Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), Grade II
FA: H. Buchtel, J. Seerley, D. Smith, 1930
Page Views: 1,485 total · 9/month
Shared By: George Bell on Mar 5, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

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From Upper Titcomb Basin, head up the drainage leading to the peak. Near the base of the peak, you will have to cross a small glacier, the Sphinx Glacier, with a problematic moraine to cross.

The inset couloir is in the center of the face and obvious once you are close. This couloir is generally snow-filled until July and you can see the snow from Titcomb Basin. If it has melted out do not climb this route (move around to the west to the west couloir).

Snap on your crampons and head straight up the narrow couloir. It is not as long as you might think, soon you'll reach a notch in the summit ridge. From here, a 5.1 pitch leads to the top, or you can solo up and down this section (I would rate it 4th class).


Crampons and ice axe. A few rock pieces, possibly.


Descend the route.