[Hide Comment] this route goes on gear too. If you do it trad, its called "The Real Oyster." Oct 23, 2007

[Hide Comment] I've done this route 20 or so times and I didn't realize it to go trad. That's awesome!! Nov 13, 2008

[Hide Comment] Finally got around to leading Oyster after all these years. Really nice climbing! The rest ledge is a real arm-saver. May 31, 2009

[Hide Comment] Great late afternoon climb in cooler weather -- this route gets sun all afternoon.

More 5.8+/5.9ish except for pulling the roof at the top, which felt like a solid 10a move.

Definitely an underrated Sand Rock route -- great views from the top and a solid climb. Jan 28, 2012

[Hide Comment] This is the farthest left sport route on this side of the wall. Agreed that it was 5.8/9 with a couple of 10a moves thrown in at the top. I would like to try it on gear. Nov 2, 2015

[Hide Comment] This route was recently rebolted by volunteers and with funds from CRV with Climbtech Glue In bolts. They currently are the best bolt option for rock climbing. These bolts will continue to be used to replace aging hardware within the park. After the rebolting, someone went back and added more wedge style bolts to the route. They will soon be removed so one set of bolts will remain in place. If you have questions about this process and would like to get involved to learn more or help out, email info@seclimbers.org Thanks. Feb 27, 2020

[Hide Comment] As of 3/1/2020, the fifth bolt (the glue-in) can be wiggled in the bolt hole by hand. Bolt has been reported to SCC area rep. Mar 2, 2020

[Hide Comment] Update as of march 6th: The recently added bolts to the left of the glue ins were removed and patched. The 5th bolt was inspected and found to stable in it's placement (I couldn't budge it in any direction with all my body weight, no cracks in the steel anywhere). However, it is apparent that someone did try to remove the 5th bolt with a hammer, evidenced by the bolt (climb-tech wave bolt) being bent a few degrees off axis, with obvious hammer strikes and corrosion caused by a non-stainless tool striking the stainless steel.

First off, wave bolts are much, much stronger than wedge bolts and do not simply sheer off with hammer strikes. Additionally, the strength of wave bolts comes from the adhesive in the hole (all still perfectly fine) and the steel itself which was un-cracked. Finally, wailing on a new glue in and then slogging in old, non stainless wedge style bolts (which were already showing interior corrosion upon removal) goes against the positive spirit of stewardship currently being cultivated by many volunteers and paid staff across multiple organizations. The SCC, CRV, and others are invested in the long term management of this excellent resource for climbers and non-climbers alike, and it would be great to continue making positive steps toward anchor replacement and erosion control rather than re-covering the same ground to undo people's vandalism to new hardware.

As an aside, anyone that wishes to climb the more difficult, left variation of Oyster from the 6th-8th bolts will find that the new glue-ins do still protect that climbing as well, and can be clipped in sequence with no added difficulty. Mar 10, 2020

[Hide Comment] Check out first-person footage here: youtu.be/pI3AtDYzaz4 Oct 23, 2021

[Hide Comment] Multiple people have told me that the right side of the "oyster" at the top is NOT the intended line and should not be 5.10a. (Maybe a 9+ instead.) At the 4th or 5th bolt you have to choose to go left (roof) or right (no roof) otherwise the traverse can be tricky. Nov 10, 2022

[Hide Comment] Lot's of climbers are staying to the right of the bolt line and that's not 10a. Just like the description says, stay left of bolts above the ledge then back right just slightly under and then OVER the roof for the 5.10 send. Top ropers will generally stay right of the bolt due to the fall-line that the rope takes from the anchor. Perfectly fine line, but it's not 10a. Dec 14, 2023