Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Brian Jung and John Barritt, 1986
Page Views: 1,271 total · 9/month
Shared By: Daniel S on Mar 4, 2007 with updates from John Barritt
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

(Edited to reflect commentator views.) A clean, and very steep 5.6 crack/face climb using the crack for protection for the first 30 ft. The rock is solid "for first 30 ft"(with the exception of a hold 5 Ft off the deck) and protects easily for the first 30 ft. Not a great climb to learn Trad on even though it has a 5.6 rating. The easier (<5.5), but chossy dirty ledge climbing at the top is more difficult to protect. The crux is about 10 feet off the ground. Protect early to avoid sliding down the slab at the base. Note-one of the first holds starting out the climb is getting loose and may fall off soon. Use caution.

Location

Climb the crack about 15 to the left of High Anxiety.

Protection

Nut, hexes, and cams to 2-3 inches. Trad anchor (bring webbing approximately 10 Ft to sling boulder) or use High Anxiety anchors with some rope drag.

Photos

MauryB
Boulder, CO
 
MauryB   Boulder, CO
 
The route is neither great, nor clean, I'm not surprised it isn't a classic. Good climbing for about thirty feet, then it becomes a series of dirty ledges. Jul 8, 2007
Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
I agree with you Murry of Furry-ness. Clean down low, then choss fest up top. Jan 28, 2008
Bracken Christensen
Boulder, CO
 
Bracken Christensen   Boulder, CO
 
I'm with the other commenters on this one. Clean, fun, and takes gear nicely for the first 30 feet. After that, it's dirty, ledgy, and gear becomes a bit more challenging. A #2 Camalot was nice in the undercling near the top. I have to disagree that it's a good route for a beginner to learn on. Mar 2, 2009
Not great for a first trad lead. Done it a couple of times and most often I found myself running it out because there wasn't great placements after the first half of the route. Try Great Expectations on Elk Slab for a first trad lead. Overall, it is a decent route. I use a number 7&8 BD hex (or 12 & 13 DMM Walnut) with a #2 cam to set up an anchor. I take youth kids out to climb this one and have found that if you are short the bottom 20 feet is much harder than 5.6. My junior high students despise this route while my high school kids enjoy it. Jun 20, 2016