Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Brian Jung and John Barritt, 1986
Page Views: 2,355 total · 11/month
Shared By: Daniel S on Mar 4, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

(Edited to reflect commentator views.) A clean, and very steep 5.6 crack/face climb using the crack for protection for the first 30 ft. The rock is solid "for first 30 ft"(with the exception of a hold 5 Ft off the deck) and protects easily for the first 30 ft. Not a great climb to learn Trad on even though it has a 5.6 rating. The easier (<5.5), but chossy dirty ledge climbing at the top is more difficult to protect. The crux is about 10 feet off the ground. Protect early to avoid sliding down the slab at the base. Note-one of the first holds starting out the climb is getting loose and may fall off soon. Use caution.

Location Suggest change

Climb the crack about 15 to the left of High Anxiety.

Protection Suggest change

Nut, hexes, and cams to 2-3 inches. Trad anchor (bring webbing approximately 10 Ft to sling boulder) or use High Anxiety anchors with some rope drag.

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