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Routes in South Mesa

Freedom T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Vortex in a Can T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 925 total · 7/month
Shared By: markguycan on Mar 3, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Located about 50ft Right of "Vortex in a Can"
is a beautiful finger tip Left facing dihedral which is accessed by some crappy face climbing on choss w/ poor pro- 30ft goundfall likely. The face climbing is not too difficult til you try to access the dihedral which is the crux! the second pitch is an unremarkable corner, a bit loose. The final pitch is pretty nice: fingers and hands to an akward but fun roof. It's easy to TR this route after climbing Vortex.

Location

South face of South Mesa of the Cathedral Group.

Protection

double set of fingers size and single to #3.

Photos

The crux move to the dihedral is sooo much better when you're tall. Don't underestimate the splitter up high! Lot's of people run out of steam before the anchors.... Apr 16, 2007
SummitSender  
 
Approach: Time:45min. Hike up the main trail all the way up to the saddle between two huge formations, Go left toward the "vortex"(black rock thing) once IN THE VORTEX go down hill left(east) after reaching the bottom you will be facing east turn right look south, head south along the east facing formations for around 5min or so staying high on the trail/slabs and skirt the east edge of the formations. Once you seem to be as far south as you can get KEEP GOING! head southwest around the formations down a gully and keep skirting around to your right(southwest). You'll drop down about 50 feet and then keep going around the formations until you look up and see the amazing looking corner crack up high and a almost too thin corner down low. You Made It!!
When In Doubt Just Keep Going South and Southwest.
Gear:
1-70m Rope gets down with 2 raps. A double 60m rap gets down in one long rap.
C3 1each 00-2
X4 1each .1,.2
C4 2each .3-.5
C4 1each .75-#3
Nuts
5draws
5-7 Runners
Save a #2 and runner for pitch 3 roof
lowballs were nice to have.

GREAT ROUTE!!!! way better than vortex in a can!
Dont Be scared away from climbing this Gem! No 30 fall potential if you bring small gear 00-1C3 and climb smart....
Last pitch is AMAZING!! Bomber Gear. Sunny 10am-5pm Nov 7, 2015
Tim Heid
AZ
 
Tim Heid   AZ
 
Super fun route! That first pitch is mega thin, but seemed protectable with ball-nuts and all the thin gear you've got. We TR'd it after coming down from linking the first pitches of Vortex into the last pitch of Freedom.

That last pitch is short, but mega-classic fun! Nov 19, 2017

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