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Loose Women, Loose Rock

5.9+, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2 from 13 votes
FA: Craig Britton & Matt Hoch, 1997
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Big Bear City Area > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Doc Holliday Wall
Warning Access Issue: Line Fire Closure in effect until 11/30/2024 DetailsDrop down

Description

Located on the far right side of Doc Holliday wall. Climb past a few horizontal breaks and over a small roof to anchor.

Location

Furthest right route on wall.

Protection

4 bolts, gear to 2.5", chain anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Decent climbing up the pinnacle right of Pistol Pete/Doc's Holiday. I cleaned a lot of the loose rock off this years back, so don't be put off by the name. Also, this route shares the last bolt and anchors with Shoot At Will (5.8). Mar 3, 2007
Jason Partin
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Maybe some holds broke off, but this felt much harder than 5.9. The crux felt 5.10b... I was cursing on it, saying, "5.9 My Ass!" and slipped twice, even on top rope, at the transition from climbing straight up to angling right, where the holds were rounded and there's a slight bulge that makes getting feet difficult. Jun 19, 2009
Jeff Edge
Bend, OR
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Definitely tough, think I only counted 2 or 3 bolts though + anchors. Funky moves in the pockets, but kinda cool. Would be a little scared of leading on gear due to the rock quality though. Nov 29, 2014
C Miller
CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] There is currently a quick link (bail-off) on the 2nd bolt of this route. Jun 7, 2015
[Hide Comment] With a little more cleanup -- knocking off the thin/scary/crumbly flakes that you're forced to use -- this would become a stellar route. Very enjoyable lead, but I agree that by Holcomb Valley grades it's a bit stiffer than .9+. Many of the 10b routes are easier than this one. Rock quality down low isn't very good for gear either, but easily overcome by clipping the second bolt on the route to the left. Aug 27, 2015
[Hide Comment] I went back a few days later a knocked off some of the looser rock. There's still a couple things that could use a prybar and hammer, tho. Aug 31, 2015
Jim Scherer
Santa Monica, CA
[Hide Comment] This route is super sketch to lead. Lots of loose stuff and it is beyond a 5.9. I fell on the 3rd bolt took a 20 ft whipper and probably broke my ankle(I have been climbing sport for 20 years and trad for 5
I would advise against this climb until it was better bolted and cleaned. This is the worst I have injured myself rock climbing. Nov 25, 2018