All that, Jazz
5.8,
Trad, Sport, TR, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 2.7 from 138
votes
FA: Mike McGlynn & Todd Lane 25 Feb 07
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (01) Calico Basin
> Guardian Angel…
> Black Wall (aka Happy…
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The first pitch was originally put up by Mark Limage and it consisted of 3 bolts and a bolted anchor. We added a new first bolt (with Mark's permission) to make the start a little less intimidating for climbers leading at this grade. Thanks Mark.
P1: (5.7) Climb the bolted face to the second anchor. Use the first to clip a draw but continue literally 10' left and 15' higher to the second anchor for the belay. This is a really comfy ledge, be careful not to get complacent and forget you are about 60' up. (60')
The second anchor was placed by Chris Burton and Mike Burton (not related) for a single pitch route called "Greek Tragedy." This climb ascends the shallow ramp to the left (east) of the direct start for the first pitch of All that, Jazz. Looks like it takes small gear. Thanks for the information Chris!
P2: (5.8) Trend 10' right to gain the shallow, left-facing corner/crack. Place gear as you like in the crack using long slings to prevent drag. Use the ample face features and crack to stem, lie-back, and smear your way up. When the crack ends, look for a bolt up and to the left. Traverse to the bolt (if it seems too high, look for feet) and then continue left to the crux, a short, dead-vertical headwall that will "go" easily to some really fun moves! There is a protection bolt smack in the center of the headwall to protect these moves. Pull the headwall to a bolted anchor and a reasonable, slabby ledge. (110')
P2 Option: (5.8) If you have time, rap or lower back to the first station after the your second cleans the pitch and top rope straight up the face back to the second anchor - fun climbing that adds another 110' to the day!
P:3 (5.6) Step off left and make a few moves on the solid-varnished vertical face to a single bolt (the only one on this pitch) about 8 feet off the belay. Continue straight up this face as it slabs off and becomes easier. Place gear as you like in ample horizontals and try to stay to the left in the black varnish. Trending right leads to climbable terrain but the rock quality is not as good and the placements will be fewer and more questionable! Watch rope drag as you move higher on the slab. There is a bolted anchor at the top, no rings or links. (110')
We took our time, placed plenty of gear, sat on the top in the sun for a while, stopped for photos and the route took us about 2 hours pack-to-pack.
Location
See the general description. The thumb-like feature stands out and easily identifies the start of this route. Approach time is a casual 20 minutes.
One of the best things about the route is it has a walk off - a really easy walk off! After topping out, walk up the ramp to the left toward an obvious tree. Then cut sharply right and walk along the ridge line - there are some cairns, but they seem to lead everywhere and nowhere at the same time. The trick is this, as you walk west along the ridge, always try to trend to the right (toward the "U" notch or saddle and away from the park). You will have to trend left toward the park and then back toward the saddle a couple of times but ultimately, you will end up in the saddle gully. Until you know the descent, you will find this a little confusing, however trending right will ultimately lead you right to the easy gully where you can turn sharply right again and hike back to your pack in about 5 minutes.
If you use this "always right" method, the correct descent NEVER gets dangerous or exposed. You will come to areas that are both, when this happens, backtrack, go to the left to easier terrain and start trending right again as soon as possible. You will know you are close when you go down into a gully and see a huge solitary boulder leaning across a two-level slab. If you walk past this boulder and turn around to look at it, it has two rectangular holes in it and you can see it is practically hollow inside. These two "eyes" look in the direction you want to go in. Continue down where you will see two big boulders in the gully. Go under the first and under or over the second. Total descent time is about 20 minutes.
If you have time, when you come out of the descent gully, go west toward the saddle and Cut Your Teeth crag (literally minutes away) and climb November Daze (5.7 100') and September Knights (5.9 85')!
Protection
P1: 5 draws
P2: Single set of Cams from 00 to No. 2, 10 slings/draws
P3: Single set of Cams from 00 to No. 2, 10 slings/draws
[Hide Photo] Orange climber at P1 anchors, Yellow at P2 anchors
[Hide Photo] This "rabbit" shaped rock sits 3 feet from the base of All that, Jazz. Picture taken from the belay stance.
[Hide Photo] Nicholas Martin reaching the final moves of the second pitch.
[Hide Photo] Looking down from pitch 2 anchors
[Hide Photo] John R. leading P2 of ATJ
[Hide Photo] From the second pitch belay down to the first and the ground. That varnish is awesome. Take the time to TR the direct line!
[Hide Photo] This is a picture looking up the correct descent gully. If you have time, run from the base of the climb to this gully and scramble up it so you know what it looks like from the other direction.…
[Hide Photo] John and Steve on P2 of ATJ
Las Vegas,NV
LV, NV
Las Vegas,NV
Salt Lake City, Utah
Las Vegas, Nevada
Las Vegas, NV
Marietta, GA
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
CA
North Kingstown, RI
portland, or
P1: straight forward bolted pitch but a little thin on the first two bolts. Great belay ledge but be sure to skip the first set of chains and use just for a quickdraw
P2: definitely the best pitch. Great pro with plenty of nut placements in the crack. I brought cams up but only used 1 near the top of the crack before the two bolts. Crux move at the second bolt is fun.
P3: took some route finding. Ultimately pretty much went straight up and a little left. I went right at the roof with cracks on either side with a good cam placement. The anchors are initially out of sight until you go another 20ft above the roof. Easy climbing but gear was a little thin and not as many horizontal placements as I expected.
Descent: first go climbers left up over the ridge line then zigzag down the west side of the ridge following open cracks to the north. Zigzag far west and north and down as you can, staying below the ridge line. When we were about as far north as you can go, there’s a 4th class chute into the main gully. We had to backtrack a few times before finding the path as it’s not super straight-forward.
Overall, great climb with some awesome exposure. Dec 27, 2018
Las Vegas
Irvine, CA
The route is fantastic!! The crux is on bolts, and rock is awesome, and the climbing goes fast. It was great for my partner who was new at leading gear.
Pasted location/decent beta:
"See the general description. The thumb-like feature stands out and easily identifies the start of this route. Approach time is a casual 20 minutes.
One of the best things about the route is it has a walk off - a really easy walk off! After topping out, walk up the ramp to the left toward an obvious tree. Then cut sharply right and walk along the ridge line - there are some cairns, but they seem to lead everywhere and nowhere at the same time. The trick is this, as you walk west along the ridge, always try to trend to the right (toward the "U" notch or saddle and away from the park). You will have to trend left toward the park and then back toward the saddle a couple of times but ultimately, you will end up in the saddle gully. Until you know the descent, you will find this a little confusing, however trending right will ultimately lead you right to the easy gully where you can turn sharply right again and hike back to your pack in about 5 minutes.
If you use this "always right" method, the correct descent NEVER gets dangerous or exposed. You will come to areas that are both, when this happens, backtrack, go to the left to easier terrain and start trending right again as soon as possible. You will know you are close when you go down into a gully and see a huge solitary boulder leaning across a two-level slab. If you walk past this boulder and turn around to look at it, it has two rectangular holes in it and you can see it is practically hollow inside. These two "eyes" look in the direction you want to go in. Continue down where you will see two big boulders in the gully. Go under the first and under or over the second. Total descent time is about 20 minutes.
If you have time, when you come out of the descent gully, go west toward the saddle and Cut Your Teeth crag (literally minutes away) and climb November Daze (5.7 100') and September Knights (5.9 85')!" Dec 21, 2021
- go up to tree and turn right along ridge, you’ll come to a cliff - backtrack slightly and drop down to west side to continue.
- You’ll come to first big gully, this isn’t the one but go slightly down it and then back up onto the ridge
- the next gully is the one, looks a bit improbable but is easy once you get onto the chute proper. Apr 14, 2023
Canmore, AB
- P1 = the first pitch of Handren's Spontaneous Enjoyment. This pitch is about 20' left of the bolted start to Geriatric Therapy. It is easier than the bolted pitch but has no bolts. However, it has excellent pro in the form of a +-3/4" cam then about 4 wonderful small wires.
- P2 = move up right and climb the wonderful left facing corner, then move up and left past two bolts to a bolted anchor. This is the crux pitch and is steep face climbing on good holds just before the anchor.
- P3 = move up and slightly left a few feet to a bolt then more or less straight up on trad gear to another bolted anchor. Pretty easy pitch.
This is an awesome route on excellent rock. I don't know why other comments mention suspect rock. The crux move to the P2 anchor is really fun and perfectly protected. Oct 27, 2023
CO mostly
Las Vegas, NV