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Routes in Black Wall (aka Happy Acres)

All that, Jazz T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cram It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geriatric Therapy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greek Tragedy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Happy Acres T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mom & Apple Pie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mothers of Invention S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spontaneous Enjoyment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tres Hombres T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8+ T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mike McGlynn & Todd Lane 25 Feb 07
Page Views: 6,503 total, 49/month
Shared By: Todd Lane on Mar 2, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The first pitch was originally put up by Mark Limage and it consisted of 3 bolts and a bolted anchor. We added a new first bolt (with Mark's permission) to make the start a little less intimidating for climbers leading at this grade. Thanks Mark.

P1: (5.7) Climb the bolted face to the second anchor. Use the first to clip a draw but continue literally 10' left and 15' higher to the second anchor for the belay. This is a really comfy ledge, be careful not to get complacent and forget you are about 60' up. (60')

The second anchor was placed by Chris Burton and Mike Burton (not related) for a single pitch route called "Greek Tragedy." This climb ascends the shallow ramp to the left (east) of the direct start for the first pitch of All that, Jazz. Looks like it takes small gear. Thanks for the information Chris!

P2: (5.8) Trend 10' right to gain the shallow, left-facing corner/crack. Place gear as you like in the crack using long slings to prevent drag. Use the ample face features and crack to stem, lie-back, and smear your way up. When the crack ends, look for a bolt up and to the left. Traverse to the bolt (if it seems too high, look for feet) and then continue left to the crux, a short, dead-vertical headwall that will "go" easily to some really fun moves! There is a protection bolt smack in the center of the headwall to protect these moves. Pull the headwall to a bolted anchor and a reasonable, slabby ledge. (110')

P2 Option: (5.8) If you have time, rap or lower back to the first station after the your second cleans the pitch and top rope straight up the face back to the second anchor - fun climbing that adds another 110' to the day!

P:3 (5.6) Step off left and make a few moves on the solid-varnished vertical face to a single bolt (the only one on this pitch) about 8 feet off the belay. Continue straight up this face as it slabs off and becomes easier. Place gear as you like in ample horizontals and try to stay to the left in the black varnish. Trending right leads to climbable terrain but the rock quality is not as good and the placements will be fewer and more questionable! Watch rope drag as you move higher on the slab. There is a bolted anchor at the top, no rings or links. (110')

We took our time, placed plenty of gear, sat on the top in the sun for a while, stopped for photos and the route took us about 2 hours pack-to-pack.

Location

See the general description. The thumb-like feature stands out and easily identifies the start of this route. Approach time is a casual 20 minutes.

One of the best things about the route is it has a walk off - a really easy walk off! After topping out, walk up the ramp to the left toward an obvious tree. Then cut sharply right and walk along the ridge line - there are some cairns, but they seem to lead everywhere and nowhere at the same time. The trick is this, as you walk west along the ridge, always try to trend to the right (toward the "U" notch or saddle and away from the park). You will have to trend left toward the park and then back toward the saddle a couple of times but ultimately, you will end up in the saddle gully. Until you know the descent, you will find this a little confusing, however trending right will ultimately lead you right to the easy gully where you can turn sharply right again and hike back to your pack in about 5 minutes.
If you use this "always right" method, the correct descent NEVER gets dangerous or exposed. You will come to areas that are both, when this happens, backtrack, go to the left to easier terrain and start trending right again as soon as possible. You will know you are close when you go down into a gully and see a huge solitary boulder leaning across a two-level slab. If you walk past this boulder and turn around to look at it, it has two rectangular holes in it and you can see it is practically hollow inside. These two "eyes" look in the direction you want to go in. Continue down where you will see two big boulders in the gully. Go under the first and under or over the second. Total descent time is about 20 minutes.

If you have time, when you come out of the descent gully, go west toward the saddle and Cut Your Teeth crag (literally minutes away) and climb November Daze (5.7 100') and September Knights (5.9 85')!

Protection

P1: 5 draws
P2: Single set of Cams from 00 to No. 2, 10 slings/draws
P3: Single set of Cams from 00 to No. 2, 10 slings/draws
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
For those who would consider this a casual day, I'd recommend doing the entire climb as a single pitch with a 70m line. The follower does have to climb to the first bolt to make this happen, so being able to climb 5.7 comfortably for 10' without falling is a pre-requisite.

If you're going to do it this way, I'd recommend 15 or so slings, maybe a few more, and maybe double up on green and purple camalots.

Done this way, you climb straight up the face, avoiding the belay out left (i never even saw it), and you get non-stop climbing for a full rope length.

Pitch lengths:
Pitch 1: 60' (from the ledge)
Pitch 2: 80'
Pitch 3: 100'

Either way, a 60m will link either the first two or second two if you want longer pitches. Feb 10, 2017
If you're comparing this to the newest Handren guidebook [2016], it's labeled as Greek Tragedy. The MP page for Greek Tragedy on is labeled simply as pitch 1 of Spontaneous Enjoyment. And to add to the confusion, This route uses the first pitch of Geriatric Therapy in Handren, and then continues to the anchor of Greek Tragedy [MP], and goes up from there. Clear as mud, right? :) Sep 10, 2016
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
There is some confusion as to this climb and Geriatric Therapy. Apparently some people consider going left up the left facing corner to the bolted belay and then on to a third pitch a variation of Geriatric Therapy and some a different climb(All That Jazz). For example, the Handren guidebook considers it a variation of Geriatric Therapy. If you look at the photos for the two climbs they show the same left facing corner second pitch. mountainproject.com/v/10804… Apr 12, 2016
Chase D  
I climbed this route last week. The first pitch has 4 bolts (5 if you clip the lower anchor as mentioned in the description). The second pitch felt sustained at 5.8 with plenty of gear placements. The third pitch was easy climbing on poor rock. You definitely want to stay left on the varnished face. Trending right will take you into really soft, sandy rock. Even staying left I still managed to break a hold. The descent was simple and took 10 minutes. Overall this was a fun route on a wall that doesn't seem to get climbed very often. Apr 27, 2015
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
 
first pitch is bolted, for the 2 and 3rd pitch we didn't place anything bigger than a #2 BD, This route protects well with a small rack - keep it light and you'll be happy you didn't haul all that extra gear. Oct 28, 2014
Jay Holland
Marietta, GA
 
Jay Holland   Marietta, GA
 
Great route, second pitch has a couple fun moves at the end. Fun easy up and out if you dont have lots of time. The walk off is simple if you look closely for the cairns, and do not drop into the gully until you are looking right straight across from cut your teeth crag. Should get more stars! May 20, 2013
Andrew Yasso
Las Vegas, NV
 
Andrew Yasso   Las Vegas, NV
 
The second pitch is very enjoyable, and the third pitch is still a bit crunchy (loose rock). A confident 5.8 climber will enjoy this route. Very scenic top out, with a painless descent. Rappelling really shouldn't be your choice, as it will just take more time and be less enjoyable. The walk off is in the sun too, as the route is usually in the shade by late morning/early afternoon. Feb 16, 2013
raygay
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.8
raygay   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.8
Really fine 2nd pitch. Webbing and rap rings are currently in place on the two bolts at the top of Pitch 3. But, the walk off descent is easy and quick enough that rapping off won't save much time and walking off doesn't require a second rope. Jun 25, 2010
46and2
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
46and2   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.8
Great route and perfect for a quick multi-pitch in the afternoon after work on a hot day! Pitch one is super fun and cruiser; pitch 2 in the best pitch but the gear does get a little thin before the bolt so be careful (but the moves by the 2 bolts are soooo soooo good!!). Pitch 3 is good too! The routes walk off is actually pretty scenic and enjoyable, have fun :) Sep 21, 2007
Francis Baker (fran)
Las Vegas,NV
 
Francis Baker (fran)   Las Vegas,NV
 
Excellent second pitch you have here!! I have figured a few things out about the area and will post up when I get all the info,photos and climbing in. Mar 16, 2007
Todd Lane
LV, NV
Todd Lane   LV, NV
Those anchors are from the second pitch of Mark's original line up this face which actually goes up the far right side of the feature that makes up the second pitch of All that, Jazz. Mar 9, 2007
Francis Baker (fran)
Las Vegas,NV
 
Francis Baker (fran)   Las Vegas,NV
 
I have climbed the first pitch you describe and then walked 15' left on the ledge and went up along a crack system almost to the top. I built an anchor when I ran out of rope and we scrambled to the top from there. I thought/think we were on "Spontainous Enjoyment". If I remember correctly I passed a bolt or two on the steep black varnish section but used a lot of gear and made a trad anchor on the top. There is also anchor bolts w/ slings 25' west of this route atop a clean looking corner. Anyone know about that? Did you guys see them when hiking back to your packs? That's when I spotted them. We did the same decent you describe. Mar 8, 2007