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Routes in Outhouse Wall

Crack Ninja T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Crag Rat Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jam Session T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Karate Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Partly Sonnie TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Roasting Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Spiderline T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tricks are for Kids T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Brad Stewart, Dan Meyers
Page Views: 3,131 total · 23/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Feb 28, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This beautiful line soaks up the sun in Willow Springs. It features tricky double finger cracks down low and a stellar overhanging, left-slanting hand crack above.

Location

This route is quite far removed from the Willow Springs picnic area. Drive off the asphalt onto the rugged dirt road about a quarter mile until a 2-car pullout appears on the right. Park and hike up the hillside to the base of the route. To descend from the top, hike twenty feet to the climber's left and rap from a tree with one rope.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 Camalot.

Photos

This is a worthwhile route that is a nice option for crack fans who don't want to brave the zoo at Ragged Edges.

Edit (years later):
Sandbag at 5.9, the FA team rated it 10b, that's about right. Awkward at the start, be ready to climb some rock. Belay is off TCUs in the vertical seam, Nick N's 2nd pitch looks sandy but gnar if you've got time to clean all the choss out of the initial crack on aid before goin for it. I replaced the slings around the tree today (10/11), should be good for awhile. Mar 16, 2007
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
You have to get a little creative to build an anchor on this one...TRing from the tree would be a BAD idea Nov 7, 2008
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
There's a splitter vertical crack on the back wall that you can easily build an anchor from. C3s to 0.5 Camalots, and/or nuts. Nov 10, 2008
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
True, But if you look at it....It sucks....and is very hollow Nov 22, 2008
Bruce Lacroix
Sparks, NV
  5.9
Bruce Lacroix   Sparks, NV
  5.9
Short but sweet. Mar 28, 2009
Danny Meyers
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10-
Danny Meyers   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10-
Brad Stewart & I did the FA on this route on 2-25-86, according to an old topo. Brad got the name from a route at Smith Rocks. Several months earlier Brad Ball and I were hiking north past Kilimanjaro 5.10d, when he spotted the route and said that he was going to do the FA solo. He let it go (too long) and, eventually I told Brad Stewart about it - he drew the short straw and got the lead. He graded it at 5.10b and after looking at the backs of my hands, I couldn't argue. Located about 300 yards north of the Outhouse Wall on the right (east) of the dirt road that leads from Willow Springs to the Red Rock summit. Nick Nordblum subsequently added a second pitch and graded it 5.11b. Sep 26, 2009
Brandontru
Nevada
  5.8
Brandontru   Nevada
  5.8
A great clean line. One of my winter favorites :) Mar 4, 2010
Patrick Mulligan
  5.10a
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10a
I can agree with those that say 5.9 is light for this. Its been 10 years since I've done the route, but I remember, especially up high that I was pulling pretty damn hard to get the route done. Hand size can make a big difference though. Great route. Nov 3, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10-
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10-
I agree on that vertical crack- the right side is hollow. If you keep a #1 for the top, it fits nicely into a shallow crack on the ledge itself and is bomber. This is a nice supplement to the horizontal crack at the back of the ledge.

Calling this .9 is a bit of a sandbag, the crux on this thing is a VERY hard pull on overhanging terrain. The jam is good, but I certainly wouldn't argue a .10 rating of some sort. Nov 12, 2011
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.9+
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.9+
What a great little route! The bottom is fairly technical and then you get those sweet overhanging hand jams at the top. Oh, if this one was longer! Apr 27, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a
A beautiful line - Classic crack climbing - too bad it is so short. Honestly I think the crux is the start, not the upper crack but everything is hand size dependent as I could hang off killer jams at the top and the feet were great. Be sure to have a variety of cams - micro cams at the start, medium small up 15 feet and 2.5 - 3 inch up high (1 or 2 yellow camalots and 1 or 2 blue camalots). You won't need any wires. You can walk 15 feet back from the top and toss your rope under a huge bolder for a great solid belay - no gear needed. Feb 28, 2013
Justin Streit
  5.9+
Justin Streit  
  5.9+
Maybe the steep section was perfect for my hands or maybe I'm actually learning something about crack climbing, but this thing did not feel bad at all. Technical start may be the crux. Use the nice foot ledge to gameplan the top section and then fire away. A couple fists, a thin hand maybe, but mostly just bomber hand jams so why does it matter that your left foot is a smear? Could see this being harder for those with hands like The Donald's. Thought Atman and Small Purchase were much harder.

Oh and I'd call this thing 50 feet tops. No way is this 80 feet. Nov 20, 2016
Paul Vankeppel
  5.9+
Paul Vankeppel  
  5.9+
Fun crack! Anyone have more details on the 2nd pitch that Nick N added? I climbed karate crack a few days ago and spotted that nice looking corner crack above the first pitch and decided to try it. I onsighted it by starting up the vertical belay seam above karate and moving left around the corner on sandy slopers to reach the nice crack above. It felt about 5.10b to me. I'm wondering if that's what Nick N did or if he started around the corner on those other two thin dirty cracks. Thanks! Apr 1, 2018
Josh Janes    
 
Paul, the line you took (climbing straight up above the top of P1 of Karate Crack, then moving left around the arete on chossy rock before continuing up the nice corner) has been done before. It might be the line Nick Nordblom took? I'm not sure... But I heard that his pitch was rated 5.11b and as you said that line may be slightly easier.

I have climbed the righthand of the "two thin dirty cracks" you refer to leading directly up into the pretty corner; given that the crack was lined with a strange, crumbling, flake-like patina which required some cleaning - and that the pitch is significantly harder than 5.11b - I would wager that it hadn't been climbed previously. I posted this route up as "Crack Ninja" and for my finger-size it felt about 5.12b. May 8, 2018
Paul Vankeppel
  5.9+
Paul Vankeppel  
  5.9+
Cool, thanks for the info Josh! I moved a photo of that dihedral over to the Crack Ninja page May 14, 2018

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