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Sticks 'n' Stones

5.9, Trad, 7 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 18 votes
FA: P1-4: Mabe/Juth, P5-7: Mabe/Hubbel, summer 2005
Colorado > S Platte > Goose Creek/Mol… > Sheeprock > Helen's Dome

Description

While either can break your bones, Sticks 'n' Stones is a dual personality route -- part bolted slab, part trad. The "Sticks" part climbs the right side of Helen's, in four bolted slab pitches, and continues to the "Stones" part, which actually climbs the right side of Acid in three trad pitches. The last pitch has an optional surprise ending...an overhanging thin hands V-slot; an excellent 5.10+ pitch on an otherwise moderate route. You can avoid it, however, by traversing off to the gully.

This route was established on lead, onsight, and free drilling stances.

P1. Start just right of the big ledge. An ascending, leftward traverse along excellent intrusion features. Belay at a 2 bolt anchor on a small ramp, (5.8) 75', 7 bolts.

P2. Steep, slab moves lead up and over a small overlap. Work up the slab to a large hueco sink you can stand in, and follow the worn water runnel to a ramp belay at the start of a right-facing dihedral, (5.7) (EDIT: Maybe harder?) 120', 9 bolts.

P3. Follow the dihedral to a point where you commit to an exciting step around. Continue on well featured edges to an 'oasis' belay ledge. The difficulty here drops considerably. (5.6) 165', 8 bolts.

P4: no bolts. From the oasis, continue up and left around the corner to the top of Helen's, belay from gear (#2 Camalot suffices), (5.4) approximately 100', no bolts!

Now, the hike. Go across Helen's summit slabs and work your way up the saddle to Acid rock. On the far right side of Acid, right of the large corner is a series of low-angled dihedrals and flakes. This is the "stones" part of the route....

P5. Get yer rack out. Climb the connecting right-facing overlaps and corners until they disappear. Double up your last piece and commit to the face (5.9) up to a bolt, then fire up more slab to a nice belay ledge, 120'.

P6. Climb the bulge right off the belay via thin hands flake, slightly dicey move leaving the crack and working into a long and wide right facing layback corner. Exit the dihedral to the left to a good belay ledge. Small TCU placement and single bolt for a belay, (5.7) 115'.

P7. This is interesting and exciting! Although there is a crumby lookin' wide crack above, I opted for the seam traverse straight right and around the corner. At the top of this corner, move back LEFT to the overhanging thin hands tight V-slot (5.10) #0.75-1 Camalots. Watch for drag on this pitch. -OR- avoid the v-slot finish by traversing right from the top of corner onto easier terrain to a gully and Acid summit.

Whew!

Descent: boogey to the Acid/Helen's descent trail. Or for full value, continue to Velcro Wall, and summit Sheeprock, for over 1000' of climbing fun. Allow for a full day due to all the adventure hiking and descent logistics.

Location

This is located in the center of the far right, south-facing flanks of Helen's. Hike as you would to Fractured Fairytales, but keep going. If you get to a huge, left-facing flake, you went too far. Sticks starts just right of the ledge of Brave Cowboy. You can avoid the opening slab pitches entirely and hike up to Acid Rock on the right. but don't sell yourself short! You're on a Platte adventure!

Pro

2 ropes (only if you are planning on rapping Sticks from the Oasis ledge of P3). Approach shoes to get up to Acid, as well as the walk off descent. 10 QDs incl a few runners, standard rack. #4 C4 (opt.).. and maybe an extra #0.75 and #1 C4.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

We started in this dihedral, the proper first pitch actually begins up and right and requires a little bit more hiking. This start gets you to the same starting ledge, just go all the way right past a big pine tree and you will see the bolts of P1. It requires the same gear you need for the rest of SnS and is 5.fun.
[Hide Photo] We started in this dihedral, the proper first pitch actually begins up and right and requires a little bit more hiking. This start gets you to the same starting ledge, just go all the way right pas…
Detail of upper pitches on Acid Rock.
[Hide Photo] Detail of upper pitches on Acid Rock.
The walkoff is to the south and west-ish of Acid Rock. After you summit Acid Rock, trend south and west-ish looking for a tree with the walkoff signs. This is the first one you'll find, they are diamond-shaped, and most have faded arrows on them.
[Hide Photo] The walkoff is to the south and west-ish of Acid Rock. After you summit Acid Rock, trend south and west-ish looking for a tree with the walkoff signs. This is the first one you'll find, they are di…
Climbing up the 5th pitch, or the 1st pitch on Acid Dome after the hike across.
[Hide Photo] Climbing up the 5th pitch, or the 1st pitch on Acid Dome after the hike across.
A view of the chimney chockstoned cave from a belay at the notch/opening after traversing and trending right on pitch 7 (avoided the 5.10+ pitch). We made this pitch 8 by climbing/squeezing up through the cave to the summit.
[Hide Photo] A view of the chimney chockstoned cave from a belay at the notch/opening after traversing and trending right on pitch 7 (avoided the 5.10+ pitch). We made this pitch 8 by climbing/squeezing up thro…
At the end of P1, good perspective I thought.
[Hide Photo] At the end of P1, good perspective I thought.
P1 of Sticks 'n' Stones on S Face of Helen's.
[Hide Photo] P1 of Sticks 'n' Stones on S Face of Helen's.
Leka following the first pitch
[Hide Photo] Leka following the first pitch
rob following p5
[Hide Photo] rob following p5
Basic Topo of Sticks'n'Stones. First half climbs Helens', second half climbs Acid.
[Hide Photo] Basic Topo of Sticks'n'Stones. First half climbs Helens', second half climbs Acid.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Re-posted from Jun 5, 2006:
---------------------------
P1 190' 16 bolts small cams or nuts for start [FA p1 anchor bolts chopped].
P2 180' ?12? bolts + nuts in bad rock at a chopped bolt.

5.8+/5.9
Sustained, fun, and interesting climbing. Mar 24, 2007
Casey Bernal
Wheat Ridge, CO
 
[Hide Comment] 4/29/07
I replaced most of the "limp stud" bolts with the FA's permission. This route is now in the condition of the first ascent except for the first bolt at the start.

Current route conditions:
P1: 80' 6?bolts, two-bolt anchor, no rap rings. Gear for start only: 0.75-2".

P2: 120' 9?bolts, two-bolt anchor.

P3: 175' 8?bolts, three-bolt anchor.

P4: 1 hangerless stud. (easy)

Top out on Helen's or rap the route. Two double-rope raps: 175', 190'. Apr 29, 2007
brent pohlmann
San Francisco, CA
[Hide Comment] Can anyone give me beta on finding the start of Fractured Fairytales? Jul 25, 2008
[Hide Comment] I did this route on June 15, 2016. Pitch 4 did have a few bolts on the upper part, after the hangerless stud and then a crack that eats gear. Not sure if these are new or if I was off route.... Jun 23, 2016
[Hide Comment] The webbing and cord on the fixed hex at the end of pitch 5 (as listed in Darren's description above) are at the end of their lives. You'll want to bring up an extra nylon runner to leave if you can, since the hex is good and useful for the anchor. We would have replaced it but figured we were the likely the last party before winter set in and it would have just weathered for 4/5 icy months. Also, you can leave the #4 at home. We don't remember ever wanting one, and it's a long way to carry that thing. Better off with a couple extra small pieces.

A fun outing in a special place and that final traverse . . . awesome. Nov 12, 2019
Syd S
 
[Hide Comment] On the 7th pitch, we opted for the traverse to the right. After leaving the one bolt belay, we traversed right and rounded the corner off of the belay. We went for the notch/slot traverse to the right and made a belay at the notch. Would recommend this to mitigate rope drag. From here, we opted to climb another roped pitch up the chimney cave with large chockstone roof to the summit. Awesome climb, would do again! May 3, 2021
eli poss
Durango, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Climbed the first 4 pitches of this for the second time today. The pitch descriptions are spot on, but the rating on the 2nd pitch seems a bit off. To me, the 2nd pitch is significantly harder than the first, either 5.9 or 5.10, but it is listed as 5.7. Is it possible some holds have broken off, changing the difficult since it was first done? I know ratings are subjective and all, but it seems like a significant mistake to call the 2nd pitch harder than the 1st, and I don't think it's just me, because I'm not an awful slab climber. Compared to crux pitch of the bolted route on Acid Rock, I'd call it a grade, maybe two, easier, and that pitch is called 10b. Anyways, a wonderful route, thank you for bolting it, I have thoroughly enjoyed it. Aug 1, 2021