Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Mark & Shirley Spencer, 1990
Page Views: 188 total · 1/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 27, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

30 Opinions

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Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details

The Climb

This short face climb is on the south face of Castle Rock, sporting bolts up a rounded ramp of sorts. It has arguably the lowest placed protection bolt I've ever seen (see photo). Climbing directly to this bolt is probably the hardest move, although it is easily circumnavigated by climbing the trough just a few feet to the right then up the route.

The Gear

4 bolts


Jon Leicht
Jon Leicht  
This one felt easier than 5.9. Outside of the first bouldery move (could be the 5.9) the rest was cake and almost not worth pulling out the rope. better climbs for the grade nearby Apr 23, 2007
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
If the 5.9 start seems too tame, try moving 4 feet left (3 ft left of the down jacket) and do a bouldery direct start, pulling the bulge on palming fiction. More challenging at 5.10d). Nov 28, 2010
Dominic Metcalf
Leesburg, VA
Dominic Metcalf   Leesburg, VA
4 bolts to protect but no bolted anchors (WTF!!). Had to down climb to get my draws back. It's an easy walk off on the other side but still makes little sense. Good route for friction climbing though! Crux is definitely from the start to just past the first bolt. Mar 12, 2012
Just do this as a 5.9 bouldering problem. The crux is getting up past the first bolt. The rest is a waste of time and rope life. There is no bolted anchor up top and I set a 1-2-3 camalot anchor in the crack high on the right with a directional from the top bolt. Not worth it. Nov 17, 2012