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Routes in Castle Rock - South Side

Belly Flop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie Brae T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bonny's Boo-Boo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Bubba's Tourist Trap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sand In My Shoes (aka Drill Dust) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strange Attractor, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
True Grit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yucca Bowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Mark & Shirley Spencer, 1990
Page Views: 167 total · 1/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 27, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details

The Climb

This short face climb is on the south face of Castle Rock, sporting bolts up a rounded ramp of sorts. It has arguably the lowest placed protection bolt I've ever seen (see photo). Climbing directly to this bolt is probably the hardest move, although it is easily circumnavigated by climbing the trough just a few feet to the right then up the route.

The Gear

4 bolts

Photos

Jon Leicht
  5.8
Jon Leicht  
  5.8
This one felt easier than 5.9. Outside of the first bouldery move (could be the 5.9) the rest was cake and almost not worth pulling out the rope. better climbs for the grade nearby Apr 23, 2007
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.9
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.9
If the 5.9 start seems too tame, try moving 4 feet left (3 ft left of the down jacket) and do a bouldery direct start, pulling the bulge on palming fiction. More challenging at 5.10d). Nov 28, 2010
Dominic Metcalf
Leesburg, VA
 
Dominic Metcalf   Leesburg, VA
 
4 bolts to protect but no bolted anchors (WTF!!). Had to down climb to get my draws back. It's an easy walk off on the other side but still makes little sense. Good route for friction climbing though! Crux is definitely from the start to just past the first bolt. Mar 12, 2012
Canon
  5.9
Canon  
  5.9
Just do this as a 5.9 bouldering problem. The crux is getting up past the first bolt. The rest is a waste of time and rope life. There is no bolted anchor up top and I set a 1-2-3 camalot anchor in the crack high on the right with a directional from the top bolt. Not worth it. Nov 17, 2012

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