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Envy

5.13c, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: Cody Roth
New Mexico > New Mexico, oth… > Tunnel > Sunny Side > Dig

Description

This fine route is the hardest at The Dig, and one of the hardest at the Tunnel. The rock is pretty decent once its been cleaned, though any patch of rock that is not explicitly on route will doubtless be covered in dirt.

Characterized by slopers, rounded crimps and technical footwork, this line is a power endurance nightmare. The last real rest is at the 4th bolt, from which point its basically a controlled sprint to two successive all-or-nothing dynos just below the last bolt. If you fall on the final throw, expect to whip about 30 feet.

The route begins atop a flat boulder, and traverses left out an orange rail to a right facing corner and the first bolt. Charge straight up pulling on a choss block that appears to be attached to the wall by spider webs and rat feces, to a tricky move and a good stance at the 3rd bolt. Continue right, then up to double jugs at the the fourth bolt, then sequential crimps lead to a slopey pocket and the fifth bolt. The first really hard move comes after clipping the 5th bolt, with difficult balance and strenuous crimping.

More sequential footwork and opposition moves lead to a lousy rest from where it is possible to clip the 7th bolt. Head back left, (dogging bolt here) then up to the first dyno. If you stick it, continue up several more moves to the final dyno with the 8th bolt in your face. If you stick this devious throw, 4-5 more trivial moves lead up and left to the anchor.

Location

6th route from the left, or 2nd route left of "The Dig"

Protection

9 Bolts (one is a dogging bolt) to 2 bolt chain anchor with biners

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The first hard move, a long reach moving up the shallow corner.
[Hide Photo] The first hard move, a long reach moving up the shallow corner.
In the midst of the crux.  This is just after the first dyno, but before the 2nd dyno.  The route follows an obscure seam feature at this point.
[Hide Photo] In the midst of the crux. This is just after the first dyno, but before the 2nd dyno. The route follows an obscure seam feature at this point.
Clipping in the 'jug-band', before the business.
[Hide Photo] Clipping in the 'jug-band', before the business.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] This route has the name Mercury Rising scrawled in chalk at the base for some reason. Feb 16, 2010