Avg: 3 from 18 votes
|Type:||Sport, 75 ft|
|Page Views:||1,192 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Feb 26, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionThis excellent line is the best warmup option for the Sunny Side, and may be the best route at the crag.
A few sequential moves lead to a two foot roof and good jugs. Its best to clip the 2nd bolt from this stance, although it is a difficult clip if the draw isn't in place. Above the 2nd bolt is the power crux which features a series of 3 shouldery reaches, and finally a great set of jugs at the 4th bolt.
From the great rest, the route heads right with a balancey, slab-style crux, that eventually leads to another set of good jugs, just below the ominous roof. Head up and left, then back right on ever steepening terrain. The trick here is to climb fast and not get sidetracked looking for the best holds. The last bolt and anchor are quite difficult to clip if you don't find the correct stance. There is a great clipping jug on the lip of the roof from which you can try to clip the anchor as you get increasingly pumped.
Apparently this line used to end below the final roof, and was given the grade of 10+. When the route was extended through the roof, locals chose not to adjust the grade, which is why this thing feels like a sandbag at 5.10d.