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Grape Ape
5.9,
TR,
Avg: 2 from 130
votes
FA: Jack Marshall
California
> Los Angeles Basin
> Santa Monica Mo…
> Malibu Creek SP
> Planet of the Apes Wall
Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park.
Details
Access Issue: Seasonal nesting swallow closure NOW LIFTED - All routes open
Details
All routes currently OPEN
Context:
On 6/2/2021 Malibu Creek State Park staff contacted representatives from the Access Fund, SCMA, and SoCal Climbing regarding climber disturbances of cliff swallow nests on Planet of the Apes. Disturbing these nests is a federal crime under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act.
Prior to a formal closure order being issued, the park agreed to give the climbing community the opportunity to resolve the issue internally through voluntary temporary route closures. The following routes need to be avoided:
Spiker Monkey 5.10c
Spider Monkey 5.11b
Finger Prints 5.11a
Planet of the Apes 5.11a
Birthday Boy 5.11b
The Crack 5.11b
Gorilla of My Dreams 5.12c
Gorilla Warfare 5.12b
Apes of Wrath 5.12d
We are actively monitoring the nest and will announce when they are reopened.
Description
The crux is up near the top. Good steep climb with great deep pockets
Location
leftmost climb at Planet of the Apes wall. Set up the top rope on the bolts at the left end of the wall. A tree banch touches the top of the route.
Protection
Toprope off bolts.
[Hide Photo] Planet of the Apes
[Hide Photo] Grape Ape is the furthest left climb, obscured by the tree in this pic. Just setup the first TR bolts you see on top and the rope should drop pretty much straight over the route.
San Diego, CA