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Bonehead Roof
5.10c,
Sport,
Avg: 1.6 from 72
votes
FA: Jim Shimberg in 1989.
New Hampshire
> Rumney
> Meadows
> Center Section
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area
Details
Description
Start up the steep, sharp face to the right of the Bolt Line slab. Expect generic moves up to a rest before the roof. Pull the roof, keeping mindful of the menacing ledge below it. Clip the anchors and clean your draws. Who's the Bonehead now?
Protection
5 bolts to quick clips
![Starts in the first little alcove of the Beginner's Route.]()
[Hide Photo] Starts in the first little alcove of the Beginner's Route.
![Badass moves over the roof with lots of exposure.]()
[Hide Photo] Badass moves over the roof with lots of exposure.
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Center Harbor, NH
New Hampshire
no trad gear or free soloing necessary Sep 14, 2010
By the way, nice photo of you climbing in Yunnan. :) Sep 14, 2010
Salt Lake City, UT
The climber fell from the mantel move just below the chains. His top quickdraw came unclipped from the rock (not backclipped, when he came to rest it was on his rope, undamaged. The bolt did not break or pull out).
He had backcleaned the draw below it, the only one on the slabby ramp leading up to the final overhang. This meant that when the top draw unclipped he took a 50-60 ft fall ending up below the first bolt of the climb.
He sustained a serious injury to his hand and arm during the fall.
This may have occurred due to the gate being faced the wrong direction on the bolt-side biner? I placed the draw when leading the route before he did, and took a couple of falls in the same spot (he had previously fallen there as well) and the draw didn't unclip. I think I faced the gate to the left, planning to mantel pretty much directly above or a little to the right of the top bolt (route doesn't traverse at all here).
As has been noted above in these comments, the glue-in bolts do stick out pretty far on this route and that may have been a contributing factor to the draw twisting/unclipping from the bolt. Oct 5, 2013
I would have liked to have a photo of the draw that unclipped itself from the eyebolt. Lately, I have noticed leaders putting the biner constrained by the little black rubber piece (or tape) on the bolt hanger. This is wrong. Always make sure the top/bolt biner is free to rotate relative to the draw below it.
I can understand why the leader backcleaned the second to last draw. If it is short, it creates one heck of a drag at the top of the climb. What I usually do is to put both a draw and a two-foot sling on the second to last bolt. On the way up, I clip both the draw and the sling. Once I am comfortably above the roof but below the finishing slab, I reach down and unclip the rope from the draw but leaving it clipped thru the 2-foot sling. This is to prevent me from falling a long ways down the slab if the last draw were to break or become unclipped. Oct 5, 2013
Northeast
re: the recent fall... no matter what you do... have SOMETHING clipped so if something does go wrong with one bolt you have something below it. a few long slings should be part of any sport climbers rack and know when to use them. Oct 6, 2013
Amen to that. Thanks, Jake, for reminding everyone.
2 two-footers and 4 lightweight biners come in so handy, even on sport routes. Oct 6, 2013
Tamworth, NH
earth
Boston, MA