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The Mystery Machine

5.10b/c, Trad, 150 ft (45 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 33 votes
FA: unknown
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Battle of the Bulge B…
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Description

This route is located in the back of the corridor above Railroad Tracks. Top out on Railroad Tracks and walk to the back of the chimney, the crack/flake on the right is the route. In the warmer months, this is a fun alternative to the heat. THIS IS A LONG PITCH AND REQUIRES TWO ROPES TO GET OFF! I was unpleasantly surprised when the length in the Indian Creek guide was wrong. No one should have to hike back down to the truck in the summer heat only to hike back up and then jug all the way back up to the top because of a little type error.
The climbing is fun chimneying to start until about Twenty-five feet up when the chimney widens and you have to transfer to just the crack. From there, a couple of wide sections and twenty to thirty more feet of solid, slightly overhanging 5.10 tight hands and hands to the top. Oh, and the top move is a little spicy.

Protection

Bring one of everything from .5 to #4 Camalots and three or four of .75 to #2 or #3. Watch for sap in the top of the route and again, bring two ropes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mark starting up the route, which starts at the back of the slot/chimney above Railroad Tracks.
[Hide Photo] Mark starting up the route, which starts at the back of the slot/chimney above Railroad Tracks.
Julian working his way up the chimney before entering the wide crack on the right where the climbing becomes more difficult, starting with a 20ft section of thin hands.
[Hide Photo] Julian working his way up the chimney before entering the wide crack on the right where the climbing becomes more difficult, starting with a 20ft section of thin hands.
The LONG hand/fist crack on the upper half of the climb. The anchors are just beneath the tree on the horizon.
[Hide Photo] The LONG hand/fist crack on the upper half of the climb. The anchors are just beneath the tree on the horizon.
Almost done chimneying and about to start into the long hand/fist crack!
[Hide Photo] Almost done chimneying and about to start into the long hand/fist crack!
Getting started on some great wide chimneying.
[Hide Photo] Getting started on some great wide chimneying.
Looking up at the Mystery Machine from the corridor.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the Mystery Machine from the corridor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob Dillon
Tamarisk Clearing
[Hide Comment] I always wondered about this one. Thanks for the beta! Mar 3, 2007
tooTALLtim
Vanlife
 
[Hide Comment] We only had to down climb the last 20ft with a 70m from the anchors (NOT the topout tree). Oct 28, 2008
Vince MacMillan
Dolores, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] "Like, zoinks, Scoob!" A bitchingly long,varied pitch. Dec 13, 2008
Devin Fin
DURANGO
[Hide Comment] this is a rad pitch !!!! slings and 2 ropes some extra two inch pro. sap at the top for sure . bomber anchors do this thing!! Jun 29, 2010
earl mcalister
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] My favorite pitch at the Crick. Varied and in an amazingly cool location. I would recommend bringing 4 red camalot size pieces and 3 of everything else. Jan 30, 2011
ben jammin
Moab, UT
[Hide Comment] Just to clarify, this climb is located ALL the way in the back on the right side. It's a R facing corner. I went in the corridor and went up the splitter halfway back on the left wall. BAD IDEA! There is no anchor and deposits you on a sloping ledge/tower w/ no anchor. I ended up single line rapping with my friend counter-weighting using a 'groove' so the rope wouldn't slide off the ledge and lead to my ultimate demise. 'Yer Gonna Die' FA Ben Riley 5.11- X. (Note: I'm being funny, there is still no anchor's up there and it's not a real rock climb) Mar 28, 2014
JeffL
Salt Lake City
[Hide Comment] This thing is so GOOD! Do the first pitch of railroad tracks and walk all the way back on a good ledge to the chimney with a crack on the right. I found a .4 camalot handy. You will definitely want three #3 camalots. I only had two and had an exciting runout to the chains. The rest of the gear listed here is accurate. The person who said this was their favorite route was spot on. The crack is a little sandy because not many people climb it. Keep an eye out for loose rock and definitely belay with a helmet. I grabbed a hold inside the crack and broke a baseball size hold off, nearly missing my belayer. Also loose stuff near the top out moves.

The anchor as of 4/28/14 consists of two bomber bolts with tat and 2 rap rings and 1 quick link. The tat could use some replacing. It would be a great idea to bring a knife and new webbing or cord to replace the tat. May 1, 2014
[Hide Comment] Really cool pitch!

You can climb above the anchor, another 15 feet through some really bad rock, to top out at the rim. You can wander around up there for a bit, and there's a tree with slings to let you rap back down.

If you do this, it's a good idea for the second to stop at the hanging anchor and reposition the knot below the chockstones, so it will pull cleanly. May 5, 2015
rohan bk
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] As of late Nov 2017, the tat has been replaced with nice, shiny chains. Kudos goes to Luke Stefurak for the nice upgrade!

Furthermore, you need 2 ropes or an 80m rope to get off this pitch. Watch out for the kitty litter near the belay at the top of the pitch. Dec 22, 2017
Mark Thomas
Broomfield, CO
 
[Hide Comment] C4 Rack used (updated with recommendations since I had to downclimb to back clean a lot!):
1x#0.5, 3x#0.75-1, 4-6x#2-3, 2x#4

This route is LONG! And there is a lot of long stretches of #2 & #3 cam sizes on the last half that do not work well for leapfrogging cams. Mar 29, 2020