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False Modesty

5.7, Sport, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2 from 348 votes
FA: Jim Shimberg, 1989
New Hampshire > Rumney > Meadows > No Money Down Area
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description

Probably the easiest route in the area. The first bolt is a ways off the ground, but the angle is a little less steep than the neighboring climbs. Big holds along the entire route make for easy climbing. The last couple moves around the overhang at the top are fun. The guide book says that everything below the anchors is 5.6, with the last 5.7 mantle above the anchors.

Location

Center of No Money Down wall. Look for a large patch of lichen left of Easy Terms with a left pointing flake near the bottom. False Modesty follows the bolts left of the lichen through a small overhang at the top.

Protection

Four bolts to Quick Clips.

NOTE : see comment 4/28/21 on left anchor, it may be lose.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Alexis at the top of False Modesty. Notice I'm standing under the climbed named after me - Mr. Popular.
[Hide Photo] Alexis at the top of False Modesty. Notice I'm standing under the climbed named after me - Mr. Popular.
Tough pull to the first bolt but crimpy slab after that.
[Hide Photo] Tough pull to the first bolt but crimpy slab after that.
False Modesty
[Hide Photo] False Modesty
Allie climbing
[Hide Photo] Allie climbing
another one of Lily on False Modesty...<br>
<br>
[Hide Photo] another one of Lily on False Modesty...
this is Lily climbing false modesty...
[Hide Photo] this is Lily climbing false modesty...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Does anyone besides me find this climb extremely enjoyable? Jan 4, 2009
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.6
[Hide Comment] The quick clips at the top of this is extremely worn i wouldnt even suggest lowering off it i would say only rap off of it. I will mention this to Jim and see what can be done... Apr 14, 2009
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
[Hide Comment] I climbed this route yesterday and the nut on one of the bolts (I think the 3rd) was extremely loose. I hand tightened it but obviously it should be looked at and fixed. Oct 18, 2009
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the heads up I find myself on this route quite a bit so i will try to remember a wrench next time im headed that way Oct 18, 2009
Peter Jackson
Rumney, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Thanks Jcomeau. Looks like a good job. What do you think about that third quick clip being left in place? I think it needs to come down, being 75% worn through. Jun 7, 2011
Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
[Hide Comment] You should have told them to wait! You were conducting important business up there. Jun 8, 2011
[Hide Comment] "You should have told them to wait! You were conducting important business up there."

+1 :) Jun 8, 2011
Troy S
Waltham, MA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Having done all the other moderates in the area now, I would definitely say that this the best route below 5.9 in Meadows. Sep 5, 2016
Colin Loghin
Westford, MA
[Hide Comment] The top left anchor is moving a bit. Because the 2 anchors are not on the same level it is getting a side pull when using same length quickdraws and , over time, this might have contributed. Not sure how safe it is . Apr 27, 2021
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
 
[Hide Comment] This afternoon I got around to removing the bad bolt on the left anchor and installing a new one. Thanks much to all of those who reported the issue. I also replaced the last of the mechanical bolts on the route so it is 100% glue-in now. Jun 4, 2021