[Hide Comment] Second pitch climbs from under the roof at the anchors via a big crack. Pull this and romp to the top. I think there were rings up there also. Jan 20, 2009

[Hide Comment] It would be wise if you are afraid of the opening moves to lead Fruit Loops first then place your first piece of gear for Granola on rappel. A fall from the crux moves (the opening moves) would be punishing. You would fall between 10'-25' into a Chimney system. Mar 8, 2010

[Hide Comment] Should be solid at the grade, its a nasty fall. May 27, 2010

[Hide Comment] The two second pitch vars. are excellent.
Var.1: From the belay anchors at the top of P1. Climb the fist crack out left overhead and turn the lip at 5.8. #4 camalot is helpful. Climb moderate terrain to two bolt belay.

Var.2: Traverse right from the P1 belay to gain a finger crack in a steep roof. Plug bomber gear and vault out over the lip on a few jugs. Belay from bolts on Frosted Flake. 5.9 Rap Frosted Flake and get your top rope on! Nov 23, 2010

[Hide Comment] Pitch 2 is worth doing. Watch the rope drag and string it out into one long pitch. Belay from the anchors up top and have fun getting back to the rings at the top of the first "pitch". Jan 20, 2011

[Hide Comment] I didn't find the fall potential to be too bad... Getting up to the first ledge is easy, and from there it's one solid mantle up to the crack and pro. The undercling traverse that follows is fun and heady. The main crack goes easy, with a little surprise waiting at the very end. Make sure to top rope Whiskey for Breakfast from the anchors! Dec 30, 2011

[Hide Comment] I fell at the crux and I feel very lucky to only have sore feet now a week later. I could hardly walk after catching booth heels on that flake. I did get back up and finish the route. I think next time I won't mess around under the roof. Just place one piece and go. As soon as you get around the corner it's easy. Mar 13, 2013

[Hide Comment] The opening is a little awkward but not hard. Slab traverse with an undercling that can be protected. Nov 24, 2014

[Hide Comment] First moves aren't that terrible if you have comfortable slab feet, traverse protects well with nuts that are very easily removed (hence alternate identity "Grape NUTS!"). As others have said, sling pro under flake roof long, especially your last piece. Fun laybacking to crack slab romping. Rap rings at anchors. Nov 26, 2015

[Hide Comment] There's gear to be placed on the traverse to make the start relatively safe, but know this section has seen its share of very serious accidents, including a broken back. NC doesn't like to award the grades of 5.7 or 5.9 very often for whatever reason. Many routes get the infamously diverse 5.8+ when 5.9 is more appropriate. Jun 21, 2016

[Hide Comment] We traversed over from Fruit Loops to set the top rope up and it seemed to be a pretty good idea. Love this climb because my friends who climb a little harder than me have the ability to hit something thats ~5.10 (going straight over the volume and using the crack) while I can hit the ~5.8 on the side (going around the roof to the left) from the same top rope. Jul 7, 2017

[Hide Comment] It's not the traverse at the bottom, moving left that's dangerous. That sews up like one of my scars from a drunken barroom brawl. It's stepping up to the traverse that's scary. Fortunately, by the time I jumped on this, I was casually flashing 5.9, and had a lot of 10's under my belt, so it was no big deal. But watch those first two or three moves from the top of the chimney to the under cling!!! Oct 18, 2017

[Hide Comment] Be solid at the grade and plugging gear before doing this one. If you have that, one of the more fun 8+’s (that are short) Mar 3, 2019

[Hide Comment] I think you should be solid leading 5.9 before you try this route. The moves aren't that hard, but it can be a heady lead and the bad fall potential is pretty obvious. Mar 6, 2020

[Hide Comment] Has any traversed from Granola anchors over to Frosted Flake and continued up from there? What do you think the traverse is rated? Oct 22, 2020

[Hide Comment] For a better second pitch, go right from belay and pull the crack on Whisky For Breakfast. Oct 28, 2020

[Hide Comment] Might just be the time of year, but I saw multiple snakes at the top of the first pitch. So be aware since they seem to like those cracks Dec 21, 2020

[Hide Comment] My follower pulled off a flake the size of a flat-screen TV from the second pitch about 25ft below the anchor of Fruit Loops. Thank the Universe it didn't hit anyone below, though it did smash his hand and rupture a tendon before plummeting to the ground. I noticed a lot of loose rock on Cereal Buttress in general. Most of the flakes on the upper portion of Fruit Loops are not very solid. Make sure to knock and test rock before pulling on it, and try not to pull on stuff that isn't a part of the mountain. Mar 1, 2022

[Hide Comment] For anyone wanting to do a dumb toprope squeeze-job, climb up the slab between this and whisky for breakfast. It starts with a tricky mantel, then some easy slab, then some harder slab close to the anchor. Both cracks are off for the whole route, and it's probably around 5.11a. Feb 6, 2023

[Hide Comment] I am very confused by these comments and the route. I think I must be missing something. I followed the topo in the RB guidebook and I started far right of the traverse at the bottom of the flake. I was so nervous about all these comments, I noticed possibilities of a number #5 placement to protect the start so I lugged it up. The way I started (bottom right flake) was no harder than 5.7 and super straight forward. Half way up the start I plugged a dump truck #5 on my right side and bumped it up with me till I stood on the ledge just below the traverse. From there I climbed up to the start of the roof traverse where I then got more gear. The #5 protected those moves up to the start of the roof traverse as well.
So my question is: do people not start where I started? Do they get to the ledge by bouldering up the slab midway through the traverse? If the latter, that seems contrived and that you would be missing half of the traverse moves!
Regardless, I think my variation protects well if you have a #5 and are not "solid at the grade".
Only other danger with this route I could see is pulling out of the traverse (the actual crux). If you extended your gear below the crux too much you could possibly hit the ledge and bust your ankle.
It would be nice if someone could clarify my confusion on this route, thank you!! May 24, 2023