Safeway Spire - Five Finger Discount
Avg: 2.3 from 4 votes
Routes in Liberty Cap
|Beauty And the Beast T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Cool Breeze T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Double Jeopardy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|F/S T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Fire Within T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Irish Pride S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Kokopelli T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Leprechaun T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Liberty Cap Tower T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a C1|
|Never Cry Wolf T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|On Fire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Osiris T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Safeway Spire - Five Finger Discount T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2-|
|St. Patrick's Day Massacre T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Steppin' On it T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Stonehenge T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Walmart Tower-Twelve Pack of Tube Socks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1 PG13|
|Whirling Dervish T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jon Butler and Cameron Burns with Luke Laeser on the first pitch (April 8, 1995)|
|Page Views:||2,626 total, 20/month|
|Shared By:||Ben Kiessel on Feb 24, 2007|
|Admins:||Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionFive Finger Discount climbs Safeway Spire.
P1 - Climb up the dihedral past some bad rock, to a belay in a chimney. 5.10d, about 100'.
P2 - Cut left out of the chimney on bolts to a hanging belay on the face. C1, 30'. (Note that this pitch looked as if it would go free without too much trouble 5.11+?)
P3 - Aid crux thin gear. 30' of manky rock to a splitter crack, that leads to another hanging belay. C2-, 70'. (Note that this pitch also looked as if it would go free, the crux of which would be the manky rock on dicey gear.)
P4 - Continue up the widening crack system to a belay. 5.10 or C1, 70'.
P5 - Climb 20' of 5.9 to a thin crack in a tight dihedral, (Loweballs make this go clean). Continue to a wide crack and fun climbing, drilled pins and an interesting mantel gets you to the summit. 5.9 C1, 130'. (Note that everything but the last 30' of this pitch will go free without to much trouble. The last 30' might go free with a variation out left instead of following the bolts out right.)
We short fixed pitch 2 thinking it was much longer then it was, I would combine pitches 1 and 2 in the future. We combined pitches 3 and 4 with no problems.
This route will likely go free at hard 5.12.