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Routes in Orange Sunshine area

Cactus Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Columns Holiday T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-eyed and Painless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cutting Edge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancing Madly Backwards S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Developing Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entrance Exam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jam Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning After S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Sunshine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overlord, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paul Maul T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Price of Complacency, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rap Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rough Boys T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Serpent T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solar King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stress Management S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thriller Pillar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thriller Pillar, Left Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Western Front T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
X-Factor T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Matt Christensen, Andy Fitz 1988
Page Views: 2,276 total · 16/month
Shared By: andyf on Feb 20, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Closure (From April 28, 2017) Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

[The pillar Stress Management ascended toppled over on April 28, 2017.]

When first led in 1988, Stress Management featured three fixed pins (one of which was a tied off knifeblade), RPs finagled into imaginary fissures, and some stout runouts, including one through the crux. It was also only rated 5.9.

Over the years bolts have continued to appear on the face, to the point where there's now considerably less stress to manage.

Not that this is a bad thing. Stress Management is a great climb made better by modern protection. It fully deserves the greater attention it now receives. Just remember that when you cast off on the crux move and ponder where the bolt is, it used to be a #3 RP waiting to catch a screamer.

The climb starts with a truly difficult 5.7 move, a boulder problem getting past the initial bulge of Entrance Exam (5.7). (Don't complain--it used to be rated 5.6.) The move protects well with a medium Camalot. Catch your breath, step right onto the pillar face, and place a good cam in a horizontal crack below a small roof (a #1 Flexible Friend works well). Turn the roof, reach high for a fragile-looking jug, and clip a fixed pin if you want, or skip it and clip the bomber bolt just a half-move above. Dance your way up edges large and small on great rock. The crux comes near the top.

Protection

Medium Camalot, #1 Flexible Friend, 1 pin and 4 bolts to rap hangers.

Photos

Jon Nelson
Redmond, WA
Jon Nelson   Redmond, WA  
The column fell down?

Yikes. I think Geoff that we all should be glad you did not get on it recently. Not that you're so heavy, but if the thing was just about to go, it might have needed only a tiny extra torque to get it falling. Apr 28, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
Jon, I just heard someone climbed Price of complacency just last night, do they get the last ascent ? Apr 28, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
If you clip the chains in the rubble can you still tick the route? May 11, 2017
Ben Bilbrough
Beaverton, OR
Ben Bilbrough   Beaverton, OR
Saw someone last week climbing the crack that is there now where the pillar used to be. They were looking around for chains. We all had a laugh. Mar 29, 2018

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