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Routes in Hodgepodge Rock - West Face

Bakersfield Bomb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bittersweet T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Briar Rabbit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hedgehog T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hogback T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lockn00b Monster TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lucy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mineshat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Semisweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Short Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Sweeny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tumbleweed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,178 total, 9/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Feb 20, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb steep double cracks in a right facing corner near the right side of the wall.

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos

This one would be easy to overlook because it's short and because it's rated a 5.4. But I agree with the above comment that it's a great beginner lead. It's steeper than most 5.4 climbs but I'm guessing earned the rating because there are great hand holds and stances all over this thing. And cracks off to both the left and right. A person could truly put pro every 2 feet on either side of the main groove.

Also makes an excellent top rope using the anchor at the top of Briar Rabbit. As of a few days ago there were 2 good bolts with quick links there. Jan 19, 2017
mmurduff Mic  
5.6
Awkward positioning early down low on the route makes me feel that this is not a beginner trad lead, despite a 5.4 rating (which I think is bogus). Sure it eats gear okay, but it requires a pretty cleaver stance to safely insert it. Two bolts (no ring, no chains) lay above the bulge just beyond the top of the crack. Nov 3, 2011
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.4
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
  5.4
A fun, short climb, good for beginner trad leaders as the two cracks suck up plenty of pro. Mar 27, 2007