[Hide Comment] It is a shame that this crack got bolted....
It was pretty well protected as it was....

How many bolts are on it? Feb 20, 2007

[Hide Comment] I have mixed feelings about the bolting of this route. Though it has been led a bunch of times on gear, it would be rare to see anyone on this before it was bolted. One good thing about its bolting is that it dissipates some of the traffic from nearby Couch Potato. Sure if this were in a more traditional area, its bolts would be blasphemous, but I think the line blurs a bit at Rumney, for better or for worse. Feb 20, 2007

[Hide Comment] I might be worried about the bolts if this climb was in the same league as Black Jack Crack. It is what it is and since I wouldn't drag my trad gear to Rumney for this climb, I wouldn't have done it otherwise. Fun and worth doing. Good moves. Feb 20, 2007

[Hide Comment] Good point. This thing is far from classic. Also of note is Black Dog crack on New Wave. This route was retrobolted and now gets climbed a lot. I think schist is pretty dodgy for trad climbs anyway, unless, of course we're talking about the few splitters in the area (5.8 Crack, Black Jack, and Journey). These splitters of course take good gear, but I would be really skeptical of any other trad route at Rumney. Feb 22, 2007

[Hide Comment] Kind of an ugly chossy trad route before it was bolted and cleaned. Much of the gear placements now available were originally full of rotting rock. The rock is much nicer now that it has had a lot of traffic, imo. It's short, but has some fun, steep moves. If only it could be stacked on top of Couch Potato. A stick clip or good spot is recommended. Aug 15, 2007

[Hide Comment] This route protected quite well. It amazes me the lame justifications we use to retro bolt someone elses route. I doubt this was bolted with Brad's consent. Nov 15, 2008

[Hide Comment] There was a hold on the face to the right when entering the crux, this hold had an X mark on it. My friend Dave told me he ripped it off the other day(it cut his forehead). Its no harder but just figured I should share. Dec 1, 2008

[Hide Comment] Really wish I led this with trad gear, would have made this climb more interesting. Fun either way. Aug 18, 2017

[Hide Comment] Really fun route! There is still an X marked block at the start, easily avoided. Oct 16, 2024