Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Bradley White, 1986
Page Views: 563 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jake D. on Feb 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


147 Opinions

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Description

Start up bouldery route to the left of Couch Potato. Gain the nice finger crack and angle to the left to the LO.

Location

Third route from the left on Below New Wave.

Protection

4-5 Bolts to LO. This trad line has now been bolted (though you could still do it on gear).

Photos

lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
It is a shame that this crack got bolted....
It was pretty well protected as it was....

How many bolts are on it? Feb 20, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
I have mixed feelings about the bolting of this route. Though it has been led a bunch of times on gear, it would be rare to see anyone on this before it was bolted. One good thing about its bolting is that it dissipates some of the traffic from nearby Couch Potato. Sure if this were in a more traditional area, its bolts would be blasphemous, but I think the line blurs a bit at Rumney, for better or for worse. Feb 20, 2007
buckeeb Hart  
 
I might be worried about the bolts if this climb was in the same league as Black Jack Crack. It is what it is and since I wouldn't drag my trad gear to Rumney for this climb, I wouldn't have done it otherwise. Fun and worth doing. Good moves. Feb 20, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Good point. This thing is far from classic. Also of note is Black Dog crack on New Wave. This route was retrobolted and now gets climbed a lot. I think schist is pretty dodgy for trad climbs anyway, unless, of course we're talking about the few splitters in the area (5.8 Crack, Black Jack, and Journey). These splitters of course take good gear, but I would be really skeptical of any other trad route at Rumney. Feb 22, 2007
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
An ugly chossy trad route before it was bolted and cleaned. Short, but has some fun moves. If only it could be stacked on top of Couch Potato. A stick clip or good spot is recommended. Aug 15, 2007
Tom Bowker
somewhere in the USA
 
Tom Bowker   somewhere in the USA
 
This route protected quite well. It amazes me the lame justifications we use to retro bolt someone elses route. I doubt this was bolted with Brad's consent. Nov 15, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.8+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.8+
There was a hold on the face to the right when entering the crux, this hold had an X mark on it. My friend Dave told me he ripped it off the other day(it cut his forehead). Its no harder but just figured I should share. Dec 1, 2008
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
This is the 3rd from the left. Left of couch potato Sep 27, 2012
Albi Eds
Brooklyn, NY
  5.8+
Albi Eds   Brooklyn, NY
  5.8+
Really wish I led this with trad gear, would have made this climb more interesting. Fun either way. Aug 18, 2017