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Routes in Below the New Wave

Bullwinkle Craters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Couch Potato S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Debbie Does CPR S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sixth Sense S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Son of Sammy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Ed Esmond, 4/98
Page Views: 2,063 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jake D. on Feb 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Route starts up the steep juggy overhang then you pull onto the slab (crux) at the last bolt.

Location

Far left end of Below New Wave. Be aware of ice falling out of the cave to the left during the winter/spring.

Protection

4 bolts, chains to lower off. You may want to stick clip the first bolt for the bouldery start.
J Meagher
  5.11b
J Meagher  
  5.11b
Sent on my second go. Surprisingly pumpy for only 20 feet of steep climbing. When you get to the move gaining the slab, trust your handholds and just go for it. The holds are better than they seem from below Oct 27, 2013
S. Neoh
  5.11b
S. Neoh  
  5.11b
Mantle? I have never seen anyone mantle on this route. I certainly do not. If you can fire the crux, the slab above is trivial. Mind the last clip on the overhang. It is not all that easy to make. This is one of the good .11b introductory routes at Rumney, just like Little Big Man, Abominable Snowman, The Dingy, and Gulliver's Travels (talk about sharp crimps!). Sep 22, 2013
J Meagher
  5.11b
J Meagher  
  5.11b
About how hard is the mantle onto the slab and the slab climbing above it? Sep 22, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.11b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.11b
This route was named for a moose that fell off of the ledge of regular New Wave, landing below this route. RIP Moose... Nov 23, 2009
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
There is now a new 4 bolt route just to the left that pulls a steep juggy boulder problem onto an easy face called Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic 5.9. It is possible to run this into Air and Pleasant Danger for a long link up if you don't mind running it out through a bit of vegetated choss in between (stay left of arete, skipping the start crux of A & P D ). Be careful when lowering if you do this. You may need a 70m to lower completely Aug 15, 2007
Kayte Knower  
 
I really like this route. Some of the holds are a little sharp, but the moves are great and the top out is memorable. Shorties are nice too. Mar 3, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
  5.11b/c
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
  5.11b/c
This is one of those peculiar routes that on some days feels pretty casual and on others feels totally heinous. The top out should not be underestimated (that is, unless you are having one of those good days). Feb 20, 2007