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Routes in Below the New Wave

Bullwinkle Craters S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Couch Potato S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Debbie Does CPR S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sixth Sense S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Son of Sammy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Den Danna, 1990
Page Views: 2,973 total, 23/month
Shared By: Jake D. on Feb 19, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Start up the orange slab in front of the large tree. Follow the bolts up and over the 90 degree roof (crux) then into the corner to the LO.

Location

Follow Orange Crush trail, the first crag you will see is Below the New Wave. Debbie Does CPR is the second route from the right.

Protection

4 bolts. Rap rings on top.
Nick Grant
Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Nick Grant   Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
 
Spoiler alert: Match hands in the mailslot just over the lip, throw the right foot real high and wide (kind of a heel/side hook), and use the lefthand side-pull. It went pretty easy for me that way. Aug 8, 2014
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
my first time on it i found the crux to be the mantel as well... i can see why in matt's description of "pulling himself over the lip"... pulling has always been my weakness in climbing... i could picture someone who was very strong being able to press it out from the jug... i however get a high right foot and a gaston and squirm my way up... not to bad now that i've done it a few times... good fun for the strong and the squirmy alike :) Apr 14, 2013
S. Neoh
5.11a
S. Neoh  
5.11a
I happen to think the crux is after getting the huge rail/bucket over the roof and getting established on the face above. This is where the Gaston and sloper enter the picture. I use both the left Gaston and right sloper. More power to you if you can pull over the roof w/o using either. Some say it is the easiest .11a at Rumney. Perhaps but did not feel that way to me. Apr 13, 2013
Matt Wilson
Vermont, USA
Matt Wilson   Vermont, USA
Finally got on this today. Hanged a bit, but for pulling the lip, I don't know what gaston and sloper people are referring to... once I reached over the lip there was a nice rail that I was able to use to pull my self up over the lip. Apr 13, 2013
charris
  5.11a
charris  
  5.11a
Super fun. While pulling the roof and rounding the lip are the crux, the opening moves and the moves to the anchors and juggy and fun. I'll definitely be climbing this again.

Unfortunately there is a big loose hold with an X on it just above face level after you round the lip. I poked it and that X is dead serious. Be careful! Jul 11, 2011
Joe C
Boston, MA
Joe C   Boston, MA
It is a one move wonder for sure but the movie is so much fun. I go for the sloper to the right as well. Its a good burley sort of root. Jul 24, 2010
BALDY
Gilmanton, NH
  5.11a
BALDY   Gilmanton, NH
  5.11a
It might be a "one move wonder"....but it's a hell of a fun move. Nov 29, 2009
I agree this is a one-move-wonder, but as such, I think it is good for people like me who are just breaking into the grade. Debbie's a great small taste of 11a on safe terrain with a clip at your waist while puling "the move." Aug 23, 2008
Chris Duca
Havertown, PA
 
Chris Duca   Havertown, PA
 
One move wonder...a route worth forgetting. Dec 3, 2007
BrianWinslow
Concord, NH
 
BrianWinslow   Concord, NH
 
pulling over the roof is certainly the crux, for which I was never able to use the gaston everyone else talks about, but rather a big right hand throw to a nice sloper. I've seen people heel hook and mantel as well. Aug 21, 2007
Ladd

  5.11a
Ladd    
  5.11a
This climb shut me down big time when I first tried to onsight it. Feels way easier once you know where the gaston is at above the roof. May 18, 2007