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Routes in Jesus Wall

Central Route TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jesus Wall Left TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jesus Wall Right (aka Boche Death Route) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Edge TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old Aid Bolt Ladder T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C1 PG13
Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,295 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 19, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Roof Version:
Start just right of Main Chimney and go up to then pull over the roof to a good ledge. Now trend diagonally rightwards up the wall, with seldom an easy move to the grainy/pebbly top part of the wall, traverse left and finish up the right arete of Main Chimney.

RH Version:
Start up the first break to the right of the Roof version. A mantle then slightly left to a vertical crack which leads to the horizontal crack. Mantel onto it and toe traverse leftwards - intense moves lead away and up from this to a depression, now up and left to join the Roof version.

Location

The left side of the Jesus Wall, trending rightwards up a shallow depression. There are some bolts here, placed as part of an ill-advised attempt to create a sport route. Do not climb the sport route unless you have a death wish.

Protection

Toprope anchor consists of a boulder, and bolts just to the right of Main Chimney.

Photos

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Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
The first bolt on the "sport route" (sarcasm intended) is pulled halfway out (6/12/07) and one near top looks like someone hit it with a hammer several times in an ill attempt to flatten it. I certainly wouldn't take a whipper on these. Jun 12, 2007