Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Ken Boche 1965 (aid on lead) FFA unknown
Page Views: 1,051 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Feb 19, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A great and intricate route.

Easy climbing up ledges leads to a horizontal crack/overlap, there's a way over on the right onto steep, exposed moves to a semi-rest. Trend right and up to gain the diagonal line pockets rising leftwards, follow these with much excitement to a tricky mantel onto the upper section of wall - steep cruxy stuff here leads upwards all the way to the top.

Note
Boche Death Route is an aid route that climbs the crack before transitioning onto the diagonal line of pockets, Jesus Wall Right free climbs (on TR) up the face and over the overlap to the left of the crack.

Location

The right edge of the Wall, then trending diagonally left.

Protection

Toprope anchor consists of a poor gnarly old tree, and cracks for small pieces. There's lot's of superfluous bolts at Stoney - a nice fat three bolt anchor here, sensibly placed would be a good thing.

Photos

Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
5.10c
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
5.10c
Anchor? Up and left (in the topo photo) there is an anchor on the face that can be reached from the top. It consists of 2 old scheisty homemade things and two better looking newer bolts (good?). Probably good and maybe put a backup sling to something else. Jun 12, 2007
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Trust no single bolt at Stoney - it's not the bolt material that's suspect, it's the rock. Jul 8, 2007
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
please check out this Stoney point thread on Supertopo!
bolt replacement plus F.A route respect given to Ken Boche! boche death route!
supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Apr 3, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Adjusted accordingly - Ryan, any information on early first ascents or names is greatly appreciated, first and foremost I'm interested in recording history and new information will be recorded in the next edition of Urban Rock. May 7, 2011