Jesus Wall Right (aka Boche Death Route)
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Type: | TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Ken Boche 1965 (aid on lead) FFA unknown |
Page Views: | 1,978 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Jordan Ramey on Feb 19, 2007 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, jt512, Nicole Wiesenthal, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: RAIN & WET ROCK
Details
Stoney Point sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many gyms in the area if you need a fix!
Description
A great and intricate route.
Easy climbing up ledges leads to a horizontal crack/overlap, there's a way over on the right onto steep, exposed moves to a semi-rest. Trend right and up to gain the diagonal line pockets rising leftwards, follow these with much excitement to a tricky mantel onto the upper section of wall - steep cruxy stuff here leads upwards all the way to the top.
Note
Boche Death Route is an aid route that climbs the crack before transitioning onto the diagonal line of pockets, Jesus Wall Right free climbs (on TR) up the face and over the overlap to the left of the crack.
Easy climbing up ledges leads to a horizontal crack/overlap, there's a way over on the right onto steep, exposed moves to a semi-rest. Trend right and up to gain the diagonal line pockets rising leftwards, follow these with much excitement to a tricky mantel onto the upper section of wall - steep cruxy stuff here leads upwards all the way to the top.
Note
Boche Death Route is an aid route that climbs the crack before transitioning onto the diagonal line of pockets, Jesus Wall Right free climbs (on TR) up the face and over the overlap to the left of the crack.
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