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Routes in Worthwhile Rock

Ernie Pyle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Holden Hands T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Holden On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Overlooked T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pile it Higher and Deeper T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Return of the Mimmster T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Worthless Bile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Worthwhile Pile T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon and Alan Roberts, 1/88
Page Views: 948 total, 7/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Feb 18, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crux is a thin section about halfway, and the rock is good.

Location

This route is a left-curving crack on the right side of the face. Descend by walking off the back.

Protection

pro to 2"

Photos

- No Photos -
A decent line if you're already there, but nothing spectacular. Lots of ants... May 10, 2011
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
How does this compare with classics like Boulder Crack???? Apr 15, 2010
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Not sure about all the praise heaped on this route. Perhaps expectations have been lowered. Mediocre at best. 1 of 5 stars. Apr 15, 2010
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Ryan Kelly has it correct;...it's a pile....(I tried to tell you earlier;...but you wouldn't listen....).... Apr 15, 2010
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
I decided to take some friends out this way to check it out after reading all the positive comments on here. It may be an ok place if you're looking for solitude and some mediocre short moderates, but there's heaps of such places at Jtree. Best thing I could say about this pile is that there was a little stream running at the base that kept the beers cold. Apr 15, 2010
Grace C
Claremont, CA
 
Grace C   Claremont, CA
 
I definitely agree with the other two- really a fun route! You've got to think a lot, but once you figure it out, the actual moves are super solid. So mentally strenuous but not at all physically intimidating...and great gear to boot. Feb 22, 2010
72HW Holly
  5.7
72HW Holly  
  5.7
I absolutely agree that this route deserves a Great rating - a ton of fun the whole way up. Climbing for me is about the movement and this one had it in spades. Not hard, not scary, just fun!

The thin section can be bypassed on juggy flakes to the left - this would be a great first lead IMHO.

As for the rap station - there is a bunch of tat with a ring atop Holden On, but it should be replaced soon. Oct 20, 2009
DaveGustafson
Palm Desert, CA
  5.7
DaveGustafson   Palm Desert, CA
  5.7
Reluctant to even go to this area today, but after this route... it was WELL worth it. I LOVED this route - some of the best moves and well protected routes at this grade. While most might suggest that my evaluation of his route is a bit generous, I feel that "Great" is an accurate assessment (certainly over "ok"). Anyways, we had a great time in the area - while the rest of the world was on DQ Wall, we were all alone!
Do yourself a favor throughout this area... even though some suggest pro to 2 inches, listen to your gut after scoping out the routes from the ground and grab some pieces in the 3-4" range! I was thankful... I'd also suggest adequate webbing/cordage to set up a rap station for a quick escape and start to the other fine routes on this wall. Apr 19, 2009