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Routes in The Pickle

Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0
Type: Trad, Aid, 90 ft
FA: Benny Bach & Cameron Burns
Page Views: 4,030 total, 31/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Feb 16, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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This is a highly visible climb in an access sensitive area. Be wise. Details
Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Follow the obvious bolt ladder past an intermediate anchor to a few free moves at the top.

Protection

A dozen quickdraws and a few longer runners.
Andy Renz
  5.7 C0
Andy Renz  
  5.7 C0
Just did the route a few days ago. There are 19 spots bolts/pitons for placing gear below the anchors. You can take draws from below you or just take the nineteen. It's very helpful if at least 2-3 of those draws are alpine. Happy sending! Nov 21, 2017
I used a Leeper Logan Hook (aka Wide Aid Hook) in the empty hole at the top of the aid ladder. It felt solid and was really nice to have. Launching into the short section of free climbing on sandy, loose rock to reach the summit still feels committing. The mighty Pickle is, indeed, a bit spicy. Mar 1, 2016
Rob Duckles
Superior, CO
Rob Duckles   Superior, CO
The highest piton ("bolt") on the top free section, the highest one before the anchor, is no longer there. There's an empty hole where it once was (which is now a nice 1-finger mono pocket that goes halfway between my first and middle knuckle).

I've confirmed this from a few sources: photos from MP + roadtripryan, talking to a party that climbed it 9 months ago to confirm it used to be there, and the route beta photo from Stewart's "Rock Climbing Utah". So the piton must have gone missing within the past 9 months or so.

This leaves about a 15+ ft runout near the top right before the anchor, which includes the crux slab moves. If you blow the final moves of the thin slab section, it's likely you would hit the downsloping ledge that you traversed earlier (which probably isn't fatal, but you could likely break an ankle). Nor do I recommend taking a 30 ft whipper onto an old piton in marginal rock :-)

For now I'd consider the top of the pickle 5.7R.

(For what it's worth: there's a decent chance you could protect the missing piton by placing the right size ballnut into the piton hole... or possibly a small black tricam or grey tricam. Though I had none of the above with me at the time, so I can't confirm.) Feb 16, 2016
We first climbed The Pickle as a joke. In 1987, we were sitting in the trailer that Eric Bjornstad and [rockshop owner] Lin Ottinger shared, and Lin said, "You should climb that thing that looks like a big dick out near Arches." So we did. "Hey, Lin, we did the big dick." "Good," he said. Later, he told us about Chimney Rock----the one in Canyonlands, as it hadn't quite or had just recently been climbed (by Kyle C.). Before the first ascent, Lin, guiding a tour, flew over Chimney Rock and threw empty beer cans onto the summit to confound whoever might climb it first. Nov 26, 2012
Eric Odenthal
  5.7 C0
Eric Odenthal  
  5.7 C0
went up this tower yesterday, aid solo. 20 something pins and bolts get you up to the last free sandy move. The anchor looks good, bring cord just incase. fun quick route if you have a few hours. Mar 10, 2012
slim

  5.7 C0
slim    
  5.7 C0
stare not too long into the eye of the pickle, lest is stare back into thee!

fun little route that makes a good ending to a long trip, when you are beat to hell and want to do something small with a quick getaway. Oct 20, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.7 C0
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.7 C0
Ickle me pickle me tickle me too, I took a ride on a flying shoe.

A fine first aid climb for my wife and I. I happily stood on the pitons on the final slab, but the last move requires a mandatory 5.7 free move. Mar 28, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I really enjoyed this tower. It's easy, safe, and fun. There are 21ish bolts (the first two are bolts and the rest are drilled pitons) on the route, so take enough slings/draws. Feb 17, 2009
Just to add a bit of credit where some is due, the FA was really Benny and Cam, not Cam and Benny. He led that unprotected top pitch late in the day (it was getting dark), and, at least when we did the FA, the thing was sandier than hell. I was pretty amazed by his lead. It was like climbing a frozen sand dune. Everything you touched came off. So, it's interesting that Todd added some new fixed gear to that pitch. Makes sense to me. Probably would to Benny, too. It might be a lot cleaner now with all these ascents so I can understand the 5.7 rating. Heck, you know how FAs in the desert go: if you live through it it's been a pretty good day.... Apr 19, 2008
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Yeah, I beefed the anchor and cleaned the wad of tat off that was halfway down the face. The routes most reedemable quality, besides its ease of access, is that it is not facing the road and thus doesn't draw attention. As Arches tower climbs go, this one feels very "Potash Road". Jun 19, 2007
I think it might help to know I told Kyle Copeland (in about 1989 or so) that the thing had a load of drilled angles in it. He was wanting some for a project, and I said he should go scarf those on the Pickle if he was desperate. Didn't think he'd actually do it. Then again, didn't think it would ever see another ascent. Anyway, that's that.
Cammo Jun 18, 2007
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
That is brave of you to admit Todd. The rap anchor is now super bomber, thanks to probably Sam Lightner?

This is a silly climb really, but it is fun and easy, and is another tower. Perhaps the easiest tower in the Moab area? It is a very safe and secure solo. It is something to do if you have an hour or two to kill. Quick access from town, easy approach, etc. Apr 29, 2007