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Urge to Mate
5.10c, Trad, TR, 45 ft,
Avg: 3.6 from 49 votes
FA: Peter L Scott and Chris Holbeck, 1988.
Minnesota > Tettegouche SP… > Palisade Head
A short but excellent, thin hand crack with good rests and the requisite manky pin at the crux. From the ledge, follow the obvious crack straight up to a crux near the top.
#2 camalots & Smaller
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Cheyne leading Urge to Mate
Urge to Mate
FA circa 1988 Peter L Scott
Perfect pin protects precarious protuberance.
FA photo showing block at beginning of crack. Climber: Peter L Scott
Urge to Mate from above. Photo: Emma Zimmer
Matt Johnson on "Urge to Mate" at Palisade Head, MN. Photo by: Mark Machacek
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calling this route thin hands is debatable. i never placed anything smaller than a #2. gear: 2-3 #2 camalots, #3 camalot, few runners. route is maybe 45 feet long. long webbing for belay/top rope anchor helps. belay at ledge takes small cams and/or nuts. i used a orange tcu, yellow tcu, and a medium/large nut.
Jun 23, 2008
Peter L Scott
Pequot Lakes, MN
FA Peter Scott circa 1988
Not Chris Holbeck (He's a friend of mine and can confirm this) he was the belayer on the FA
Originally there was a loose block at the beginning of the crack (see photo) that I later trundled and then reclimbed the route. This made the initial crack longer.
I love the belay ledge on this route! The position is incredible .
Glad to see people climbing this route.
Sep 20, 2011
So classic. Every year I worked for the Voyageur Outward Bound in Ely we'd make a pilgrimage to climb at Palisade and specifically to climb Urge to Mate. This route is awesome: hands at the bottom and steep cruxy face moves at the top. It's a must climb for the area! Love it!
Find the top by looking for the small "Headstonish" looking rock facing away from the lake.
Nov 29, 2012
There's a lost arrow and rusty bolt at the starting belay ledge. I reinforced it with a #5 C4. My rack suggestion would be three #2 C4, one #3 C4, and a #1 and #2 Metolius Master cam near the top below the pin.
Aug 1, 2015
I left a stuck #3 today 8/7/17. If anyone gets it out I would love to buy you a case of beer or something in exchange for it back.
Aug 7, 2017
Great route, it's just so short for the Head!
Sep 11, 2017
Grand Marais, MN
I noticed today that the famous fixed pin which protects the crux is gone. Not sure about others, but I always clipped this before pulling the final moves, I even fell on it once.
Sep 21, 2017
I saw last weekend that the pin near the top is back.
Jul 10, 2018